PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids) are gaining increasing interest in cosmetology. They are part of the hydroxy acid family along with AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids). Known as the new generation of AHAs, they are particularly appreciated for their gentle exfoliating power. Discover the best active ingredient combinations to use with PHAs.
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Which active ingredients should be paired with PHAs?
Summary
Published April 15, 2022,
updated on July 17, 2024,
by
Sandrine, Scientific Editor
—
7 min read
A few words about P.H.A.s
The poly-hydroxy acids or P.H.A.s are organic carboxylic acids. Considered the new generation of A.H.A.s, they are known for their keratolytic effects, meaning they remove dead cells and accelerate cell renewal. Unlike A.H.A.s, P.H.A.s have the advantage of being gentle and do not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun. In addition, they have moisturizing and humectant properties. They offer the same properties as A.H.A.s but without being irritating. For these reasons, they are suitable for dry, reactive, or sensitive skin.
The poly-hydroxy acids commonly used in cosmetology come in three types:
Gluconolactone : Also known as gluconic acid, gluconolactone is one of the active ingredients naturally present in skin cells. This exfoliant is both hydrating and antioxidant.
Lactobionic Acid: This derivative of lactose has a antioxidant, soothing, and hydrating effect. It reduces wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation spots, and scars. Lactobionic acid also helps to protect the skin barrier.
Galactose: This active ingredient stimulates the production of collagen in addition to gently eliminating dead cells.
P.H.A.: The Right Combinations.
P.H.A.s can be combined with other active ingredients to enhance their effects. Discover which active ingredients they can be paired with:
P.H.A. and Retinol:
Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is the key active ingredient in combating skin aging. It stimulates the synthesis of elastin and collagen, the fibrous proteins present in the dermis, which are essential for skin firmness and elasticity. When combined with P.H.A.s, it enhances their effects on acne and photo-aging.
However, the retinol is a molecule that can prove to be irritating and drying. If you have sensitive skin, you should instead turn to the bakuchiol , which is a natural alternative to retinol with fewer side effects.
P.H.A. and Moisturizing Agents:
P.H.A.s are particularly valued in cosmetics for their moisturizing and humectant properties. Combining them with other hydrating agents such as hyaluronic acid, inulin, or aloe vera can help reduce the phenomenon of skin dehydration that causes tightness and discomfort. Your skin will regain its comfort. Our exfoliating cleansing gel combines gluconolactone with inulin and aloe vera. It exfoliates the skin while hydrating it and strengthening the skin barrier.
P.H.A. and Vitamin C:
Poly-hydroxy acids operate at a pH similar to that of vitamin C. They allow for better penetration and optimize their effects on the skin. As a reminder, vitamin C promotes collagen synthesis, neutralizes free radicals, and evens out skin tone. It also helps combat signs of aging and imperfections (such as pigmentation spots). Indeed, both PHAs and vitamin C are acids. However, they can be used simultaneously as PHAs are non-irritating.
Our products based on P.H.A.
At Typology, we have developed a range of skincare products based on P.H.A., among which you will find:
The exfoliating cleansing gel is based on P.H.A. (gluconolactone) which provides a gentle chemical micro-exfoliation. This cleanser unclogs pores and promotes skin hydration. It also contains aloe vera which hydrates and soothes the skin, as well as inulin which rebalances the skin microbiota. The sweet orange essential oil it also contains has antibacterial properties ideal for fighting against pimples.
The peeling mask unclogs pores, renews the skin, and evens out the complexion. Composed of an exfoliating complex based on A.H.A. and P.H.A., it eliminates dead skin cells and refines the skin texture. Used once or twice a week, it also helps to reduce the presence of blackheads over time.
The anti-mark serumimproves the appearance of superficial, closed, and shallow scars through theresurfacing and depigmenting action of P.H.A. combined with theregenerative action of Centella asiatica. It also containslicorice extract which reduces the production of melanin and thus fights against thehyperpigmentation of post-acne marks. Itis enough to apply a drop on the concerned areas, in the evening only.
Thescalp exfoliant provides a double exfoliation of the scalp : chemical with P.H.A.s, and mechanical with jojoba beads and silica powder. The scalp is healthy, rebalanced, and rid of dead cells. The mechanical exfoliation action combined withpeppermint essential oil helps to accelerate hair growth by stimulating microcirculation. Additionally, theeucalyptus globulus essential oil it contains calms scalp irritations and limits the appearance of dandruff. Finally, the P.H.A.s and aloe vera stimulate the scalp's natural hydration. This scrub should be used once to twice a week on a dry scalp. Despite the presence of essential oils, this product can be used by pregnant and breastfeeding women.
Sources
EDISON B. & al. The application of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin. Cutis (2004).
SIGLER M. & al. A polyhydroxy acid skincare routine offers anti-aging benefits comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid routine. Cutis (2004).
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