Beta-glucan and hyaluronic acid are among the most sought-after moisturizing actives in cosmetics. But are their mechanisms of action similar? And is their efficacy comparable? Let’s explore how these two actives support skin hydration.
Beta-glucan versus hyaluronic acid, two highly hydrating molecules.
Summary
Published on October 28, 2025, updated on October 28, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 8 min of reading
Themes:
The key points to remember.
Beta-glucan is a natural polysaccharide that helps to restore the skin barrier and reduce water loss through its action on epidermal differentiation and lipid synthesis.
Hyaluronic acid is capable of retaining up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Depending on its molecular weight, it acts on the surface to limit water evaporation or penetrates more deeply to hydrate the skin’s inner layers.
Although there are no studies directly comparing the two actives, both are highly hydrating and well tolerated, with more research available on hyaluronic acid.
Hyaluronic acid and beta-glucan can be combined to optimise skin hydration.
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An in-depth look at the hydrating benefits of beta-glucan.
Beta-glucan is a natural polysaccharide derived from the cell walls of certain plants, such as oats and barley, from fungi, and from yeasts. This high-molecular-weight polymer, composed of glucose units linked by β linkages, forms structures capable of retaining water at the surface of the skin. In cosmetics, beta-glucan is thus widely used in moisturizing, soothing, and reparative skincare products.
Its primary benefit lies in its ability to reinforce and protect the skin barrier. By acting as a humectant, beta-glucan attracts and retains water in the stratum corneum, helping to limit insensible water loss and maintain optimal hydration levels. Unlike some moisturizers that act only on the surface, beta-glucan has a fibrous structure that enables it to form a continuous film while promoting the gradual restoration of the skin barrier.
Several studies have highlighted the active role of beta-glucan in skin repair. Recent work has shown that oat-derived beta-glucan stimulates the Dectin-1 signaling pathway, essential for epidermal cohesion. This activation leads to increased expression of structural proteins such as filaggrin, loricrin, and claudin-1, which are indispensable for the integrity of the skin barrier. At the same time, beta-glucan promotes keratinocyte differentiation by modulating the ERK/p38 MAPK pathway and stimulating calcium-sensing receptors (CaSR)—key mechanisms for strengthening intercellular junctions. Finally, by activating the nuclear receptor PPAR-γ, beta-glucan supports epidermal lipid synthesis, thereby improving the skin’s water retention.
Beta-glucan thus acts through multiple mechanisms to maintain skin hydration.
The hydrating and reparative efficacy of beta-glucan was confirmed by a clinical study conducted on 20 patients with atrophic acne scars treated with CO2. For 14 days, patients applied a beta-glucan–based topical treatment (concentration not specified) to one half of the face, while the other side received the same cream without beta-glucan. Measured parameters, including hydration and transepidermal water loss, assessed skin recovery after laser treatment. Results show that by the seventh day, skin treated with beta-glucan exhibited a significantly greater hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss compared with the control side. Additionally, the hemoglobin index, an indicator of inflammation, improved more rapidly, indicating better skin repair.
63.2%
Participants rated the hydrating and reparative efficacy of the beta-glucan treatment as superior to that of the neutral vehicle.
How does hyaluronic acid hydrate the skin?
The hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally present in the skin, primarily located in the dermis, where it, along with collagen and elastin, forms the framework of connective tissue. This extracellular matrix creates a viscoelastic gel rich in glycosaminoglycans, capable of retaining and distributing water, thus ensuring the skin’s suppleness and turgor. Long thought to be confined to the dermis, hyaluronic acid has also been identified in the epidermis, where it helps to bind water molecules and strengthen the hydrolipidic film that limits their evaporation.
The distinctive property of hyaluronic acid lies in its strong hygroscopic power: it can attract and retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water. This exceptional capacity makes it a major humectant for the skin. In cosmetics, it is used to enhance hydration of the upper epidermal layers and maintain a cutaneous environment conducive to cellular functions. Its properties vary with molecular weight. At high molecular weight (1,000 to 1,400 kDa), hyaluronic acid forms a protective film on the skin's surface that limits transepidermal water loss. At low molecular weight (20 to 300 kDa), it penetrates more deeply into the epidermal layers, where it binds water diffusing from the dermis.
The hyaluronic acid is one of the most studied hydrating actives.
| Study | Protocol | Results |
|---|---|---|
| PAVICIC & al. (2011) | Twice-daily application of a 0.1% hyaluronic acid cream (50, 130, 300, 800, or 2000 kDa) by 76 volunteers | An average 10% increase in hydration after 60 days |
| VEGA & al. (2016) | Twenty-four volunteers applied a hyaluronic acid serum twice daily | Hydration measured with a corneometer increased by 13% after 8 weeks |
| BOYD & al. (2021) | Twice-daily application of a hyaluronic acid serum by 40 volunteers | A 35% increase in hydration measured by a corneometer after 2 weeks, 46% after 4 weeks, and 63% after 6 weeks |
| GIANNINI & al. (2022) | Twice-daily application of a hyaluronic acid serum by 46 volunteers | 11% increase in hydration after 8 weeks |
Results from a few clinical studies on the moisturizing properties of hyaluronic acid.
Beta-glucan or hyaluronic acid: which active ingredient should you choose to hydrate the skin?
To date, no direct comparative clinical study has evaluated the effects of beta-glucan and hyaluronic acid on skin hydration.
Both molecules are recognized for their humectant and restorative properties, although the scientific literature is more abundant regarding hyaluronic acid, studied for several decades for its role in regulating stratum corneum hydration and restoring dermal volume. Beta-glucan, for its part, is attracting growing interest in dermatology and cosmetics for its soothing, hydrating, and barrier-protective capabilities, notably through its action on lipid synthesis. Moreover, both active ingredients are very well tolerated and suitable for sensitive skin.
Rather than opposing them, these two active ingredients can be combined to optimize skin hydration and repair. Hyaluronic acid primarily serves as a water reservoir in both the epidermal and dermal layers, while beta-glucan reinforces barrier function and soothes inflammatory reactions. This synergy was demonstrated in a recent study focused on designing a composite based on beta-1,3-glucan and hyaluronic acid. The resulting biomaterial showed excellent biocompatibility, stimulated cell migration, and enhanced wound healing, all while retaining effective antibacterial activity.
These results indicate that the combination of beta-glucan and hyaluronic acid not only enhances skin hydration but also promotes tissue regeneration. However, caution is warranted because this study was conducted in vitro. Clinical studies on the benefits of combining hyaluronic acid with beta-glucan are still needed to confirm their synergistic effect.
Sources
PAVICIC T. & al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2011).
VEGA L. & al. Rejuvenating hydrator: Restoring epidermal hyaluronic acid homeostasis with instant benefits. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2016).
RICHTER J. & al. Beta-glucan: Supplement or drug? From laboratory to clinical trials. Molecules (2019).
CAO Y. & al. Administration of skin care regimens containing β-glucan for skin recovery after fractional laser therapy: A split-face, double-blinded, vehicle-controlled study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020).
BOYD T. & al. Efficacy evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum in facial photoaging. Dermatology & Therapy (2021).
KEROB D. & al. Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence. Dermatologic Therapy (2022).
GIANNINI A. & al. Multicenter evaluation of a topical hyaluronic acid serum. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2022).
SINGH G. & al. Beta-glucan as a soluble dietary fiber source: Origins, biosynthesis, extraction, purification, structural characteristics, bioavailability, biofunctional attributes, industrial utilization, and global trade. Nutrients (2024).
