How should bakuchiol be used?

Presented as the green and safe-to-use version of retinol, bakuchiol is an ingredient derived from Babchi seeds. Also called "bakuchi," this plant, endemic to the Himalayan region, has long been included in the Ayurvedic pharmacopeia. Over the past fifteen years, bakuchiol has emerged in the cosmetic market as a mild alternative to retinoids. Non-irritating, photostable, and free of contraindications, the bakuchiol acts on the same mechanisms underlying skin concerns as these compounds, and can specifically target wrinkles, blemishes, pigmentary spots, and excess sebum.

In formulations, bakuchiol is generally employed at concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2%.

The available data suggest that a 0.5% concentration can already produce visible effects on wrinkle appearance, skin firmness, and tone evenness, especially when used daily. The concentrations around 1% are the ones most commonly found in serums and targeted treatments. One might assume that bakuchiol’s efficacy increases above 2%, but in reality no clinical study has shown that this concentration is superior.

Once the concentration has been selected, you still need to know how to incorporate bakuchiol into your daily regimen. The good news: this active ingredient is known for its excellent skin tolerance and non-photosensitizing properties, making it more versatile in use than retinol.

Where should bakuchiol be applied?

Most bakuchiol-based treatments can be applied to the entire face, as well as the neck and décolletage. This active compound is particularly beneficial for the periorbital area, where the skin is thinner and expression lines form more quickly. Some formulations are intended for local application, for example applied only to blemishes. The key is to strictly follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

How frequently should bakuchiol be used?

Bakuchiol is not photosensitizing, meaning it does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV rays. It can therefore be used in the morning and/or evening. That said, daily application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen remains essential in the morning, especially if the goal is to target signs of aging or pigmentation spots.

Note : Bakuchiol is a lipophilic molecule, which facilitates its incorporation into oil-based serums or night oils. This formulation, often associated with evening application for comfort and texture, may have fostered the idea that it is photosensitizing. However, bakuchiol does not increase the skin’s sensitivity to UV. Its nighttime use is primarily a sensory preference.

What is the application of bakuchiol in pharmaceutical formulations?

Depending on their pharmaceutical formulation, bakuchiol products are not all used in the same way.

The bakuchiol serums are applied to clean, dry skin before your moisturizer. Place 2 to 5 drops in the palm of your hand, spread the formula evenly over the face and neck, then gently massage until fully absorbed. For bakuchiol creams, take a pea-sized amount and apply it over the entire face. Remember to massage in upward strokes to optimize penetration and counteract gravity, which can promote skin laxity. Finally, if you’re using a bakuchiol eye contour product, use your ring finger to lightly tap a small amount along the orbital bone, moving from the inner corner toward the outside. Avoid rubbing, the eye contour is particularly delicate.

Note : Bakuchiol also has the advantage of being easy to combine with other cosmetic actives. Unlike retinol, it does not present any contraindications when combined and can be paired with ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide, AHAs, ceramides or even retinol itself, depending on the objective.

The bakuchiol could theoretically be beneficial for the scalp.

Its antioxidant and soothing properties could help to protect it from oxidative stress and alleviate discomfort. It may also be of interest for oily scalps, as some studies suggest it can help regulate sebum production by the sebaceous glands. However, no mechanism suggests that bakuchiol provides a benefit to hair lengths. At present, scientific data on the hair-care use of bakuchiol remain limited, and hair products formulated with this active ingredient are very scarce.

• BOJANOWSKI K. & al. Bakuchiol: A retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).  

• REITER P. & al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

• SIVAMANI R. K. & al. Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).

• SODHA P. & al. The use of bakuchiol in dermatology: a review of in vitro and in vivo evidence. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2022).