How can one eliminate oily and dry dandruff?

The dandruff are a very common scalp imbalance. They result from excessive flaking of the scalp. Normally, scalp cell renewal occurs on a cycle of about 28 days, but in the case of dandruff, this process accelerates and leads to premature shedding of keratinocytes. The appearance of dandruff is multifactorial and not due to poor hygiene, contrary to popular belief. The proliferation of a yeast naturally present on the skin, Malassezia furfur, plays a major role by disrupting the skin’s balance and triggering an inflammatory response. Additional factors include stress, hormonal fluctuations, genetic predisposition, and the use of unsuitable hair care products.

The primary approach to combating dandruff involves using an anti-dandruff treatment.

Solution No. 1 for dandruff: use an anti-dandruff product.

Whether in shampoos, serums, or lotions, these formulations contain active ingredients specifically designed to target both the proliferation of the fungus Malassezia furfur and scalp inflammation. Ketoconazole and selenium sulfide, for example, have potent antifungal properties that reduce the yeast populations responsible for scalp imbalance. Salicylic acid and glycolic acid, meanwhile, dissolve flake accumulations to cleanse the scalp. Salicylic acid is also effective against excess sebum, which can worsen dandruff and trigger seborrheic dermatitis. Among the most effective anti-dandruff agents, one also finds ciclopirox olamine and piroctone olamine, which are structurally similar and complementary.

Only regular use of an anti-dandruff treatment allows for the sustained elimination of dandruff. When it comes to a shampoo, during the initial treatment phase it is typically used two to three times per week, left on for a few minutes before rinsing to allow the active ingredients to work. Once symptoms are controlled and dandruff has disappeared, weekly maintenance use is often sufficient to prevent recurrence. It is also advisable to alternate between an anti-dandruff shampoo and a gentle, hydrating shampoo, so as not to weaken the scalp, especially if your dandruff is dry and mild.

Note : Multiple studies have demonstrated a link between dandruff and dysbiosis of the bacterial and fungal flora of the scalp. The findings indicate a potential new role for commensal bacteria in maintaining scalp homeostasis and highlight an important, yet still unknown, function of the scalp microbiome. For your information, commensal bacteria are a class of microorganisms that live on the surface of our skin without harming or benefiting it. This resembles a form of symbiosis that is beneficial to only one party. Therefore, the use of prebiotics in anti-dandruff shampoos could be very promising for supporting the microbiota.

Solution No. 2 for dandruff: regularly exfoliate your scalp.

Beyond the use of anti-dandruff treatments, scalp exfoliation plays a crucial role in limiting dandruff formation. Indeed, the buildup of dead skin cells and sebum residues creates an environment conducive to microbial proliferation and intensifies itching. To unclog hair follicles and prevent the formation of new flakes, we therefore recommend using a shampoo containing exfoliating agents or performing a gentle scalp scrub once or twice a week.

A recent study conducted with 32 volunteers confirmed the benefit of this approach: after 15 days of daily use of a scrub formulated with exfoliating acids (AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs) combined with a hydrating serum, participants exhibited a significant reduction in visible dandruff. At the same time, scalp hydration increased, contributing to a decrease in sensations of tightness and itching.

Solution No. 3 for dandruff: Utilize essential oils.

At the same time, certain essential oils can complement dandruff management thanks to their antifungal and soothing properties. However, they should never be applied undiluted to the scalp, as this may cause irritation. It is recommended to dilute them in a lightweight carrier oil, such as jojoba oil or grape seed oil, which will not weigh down the hair. Among the most commonly used, the tea tree essential oil, of lavender, of rosemary or of Atlas cedar are particularly effective at limiting the proliferation of Malassezia and alleviating itching. However, exercise caution: do not mix multiple essential oils unless you are skilled in aromatherapy. Instead of boosting their effectiveness, this could sensitize the scalp.

The efficacy of tea tree essential oil has been demonstrated in a trial of 126 participants suffering from mild to moderate dandruff. For four weeks, participants applied daily either a shampoo containing 5% tea tree essential oil, or the same shampoo without oil. The results showed a significant improvement in the dandruff severity score in the treated group (-41%, versus -11% in the placebo group), along with reductions in the affected area and in itching. Furthermore, no adverse effects were reported.

Note : Although dry and oily dandruff are often distinguished, they are treated in the same way. Dry dandruff was formerly referred to as “pityriasis simplex” and oily dandruff as “pityriasis steatoides” (often associated with seborrheic dermatitis), but these terms are now obsolete. Current scientific literature no longer differentiates oily from dry dandruff.

At Typology, you’ll find various products that will allow you to keep your dandruff under control.

• Our anti-dandruff shampoo is suitable for oily and dry dandruff. It is formulated with 1% piroctone olamine which has antifungal activity and limits sebum secretion. It also contains jujube extract which regulates scaling and thus reduces dandruff formation. It also soothes itching and irritation. Additionally, this treatment contains Atlas cedar essential oil and clary sage essential oil recognized for their anti-dandruff and sebum-regulating properties.

• Our scalp scrub, enriched with PHAs and jojoba beads, gently removes dead skin cells for a healthy, balanced scalp. It contains 95% naturally derived ingredients and is applied before shampooing.

Although dandruff is benign, a consultation with a dermatologist is necessary, especially in cases of severe dandruff. Furthermore, dry dandruff presents a clinical picture similar to psoriasis. This will allow your physician to guide you most effectively.

• BARNETSON R. & al. Treatment of dandruff with 5% tea tree oil shampoo. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2002).

• WIKRAMANAYAKE C. & al. Seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff: A comprehensive review. Journal of Clinical and Investigative Dermatology (2015).

• SHARMA V. K. Comparison of healthy and dandruff scalp microbiome reveals the role of commensals in scalp health. Frontiers in Cellular and Infection Microbiology (2018)

• JEGOU-PENOUIL M.-H. Les pellicules. Dermato-info (2019).

• PATNAIK S. & al. An assessment of the safety, efficacy, and tolerability of a novel scalp treatment regimen combining a hydroxy acid-based scrub and copper tripeptide serum in the management of seborrheic dermatitis in adults. Cureus (2024).