How to eliminate dandruff?

Affecting nearly 50% of the population, dandruff is a very recurrent imbalance. These are small whitish, yellowish, or grayish flakes that, depending on the type of dandruff (dry or oily), detach or remain stuck to the scalp. The process behind this phenomenon is an abnormally rapid renewal of the epidermal cells of the scalp. The dead cells formed are immature to eliminate naturally, so they clump together, making them visible to the naked eye.

Beyond their unsightly appearance, dandruff can cause itching, especially in the case of oily dandruff. Therefore, dandruff can impact self-esteem and quality of life.

To eliminate dandruff, it is necessary to use a gentle shampoo that is specifically designed to address this issue. Anti-dandruff shampoos contain certain key active ingredients:

• Antifungal agents :

  One of the main causes of dandruff formation is the colonization by Malassezia type fungi. Therefore, antifungal agents are necessary to effectively eliminate dandruff. Among them, we can mention piroctone olamine, ciclopirox, or even ketoconazole.

Note : The pyrithione-zinc (INCI name: Zinc Pyrithione) is an antifungal, antibacterial, and anti-seborrheic active ingredient found in the composition of many anti-dandruff shampoos. However, it is now banned in Europe due to its carcinogenic risk.

• Keratolytic agents:

  Dandruff consists of small scales or immature dead cells that cannot naturally be eliminated. Therefore, keratolytic agents are used to effectively remove these dead cells. For example, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone or lactic acid are often found in anti-dandruff shampoos.

• The soothing agents:

  Dandruff often goes hand in hand with itching. Indeed, this is especially common for oily dandruff. Soothing active ingredients, such as the bisabolol or the calendula, can help to calm and alleviate the sensations of itching.

• Anti-seborrheic agents:

  It has been proven that the two major causes of dandruff are the colonization of the scalp by microorganisms and the overproduction of sebum, particularly in the case of oily dandruff. Additionally, hyperseborrhea promotes the proliferation of fungi responsible for dandruff. Therefore, the use of anti-seborrheic active ingredients such as zinc, nettle extract, or certain essential oils (essential oil of clary sage, ylang-ylang, rosemary verbenone) is beneficial in combating dandruff.

• The nourishing, hydrating, and rebalancing active ingredients:

  Individual factors also play a significant role in the formation of dandruff. This is particularly true for individuals with a dysfunctional skin barrier. An imbalance in the barrier function leads to an increase in sebum secretion by the sebaceous glands and promotes the colonization of the scalp by Malassezia-type fungi. Therefore, to strengthen the skin barrier, nourishing and hydrating actives such as squalane or aloe vera are used.

Note : Studies have highlighted a connection between dandruff and dysbiosis (imbalance) of the bacterial and fungal flora of the scalp. The findings suggest a potential new role for commensal bacteria in maintaining scalp homeostasis and underscore an important and yet unknown role of the scalp microbiome. Consequently, the use of prebiotics in anti-dandruff shampoos is very intriguing to support the microbiota and keep Malassezia under control.