Dull complexion, enlarged pores, imperfections... the glycolic acid is a key active ingredient in cosmetics, offering numerous scientifically backed benefits. However, to maximize its effects, it must be used correctly. What is the recommended protocol for glycolic acid? We explain everything.
How should glycolic acid be used?
Summary
Published on August 17, 2021, updated on January 12, 2026, by Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences — 7 min of reading
Themes:
The key takeaway.
When used at low concentrations (< 10%), it is incorporated into the formulations of many cosmetics for evening application, always accompanied by hydration and sunscreen.
Sensitive or novice skin should favor relatively low concentrations (≈ 5%), while more “resistant” or “acclimated” skin can tolerate somewhat higher concentrations.
When using concentrations of 20% or higher, it is recommended to apply glycolic acid in a spa or under the supervision of a dermatologist.
Dermatological peels are contraindicated during pregnancy, breastfeeding, in cases of allergies or skin lesions, and when taking photosensitizing medications.
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Glycolic acid: how to incorporate it into your skincare routine?
As an exfoliant, glycolic acid poses a risk of drying the skin. To counteract this effect, apply a moisturizing cream suited to your skin type after application. Exfoliation also makes the skin more vulnerable to external aggressors, particularly UV radiation. For this reason, the glycolic acid is used preferably in the evening, when cellular regeneration peaks. In the morning, it is essential to apply a sun protection of broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher, regardless of weather. Without it, the skin will redden more quickly and the risk of sunburn will be greater.
It is also advisable tostart with a low concentration (≈ 5%) and gradually increase based on your skin’s tolerance. It’s best to introduce glycolic acid gently to avoid redness or irritation. Along the same lines, avoid combining multiple irritating active ingredients on the same day, such as other AHAs or retinoids, to minimize the risk of sensitivity.
In terms of formulation, anything is possible. You can opt for a lightweight leave-on serum if you’re seeking fast penetration and a gradual effect. Creams containing glycolic acid are particularly suitable for more sensitive skin, since the inclusion of emollients helps mitigate the active’s potential irritancy. Generally, it’s advised to favor formulas that combine glycolic acid with soothing or hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid or bisabolol, to enjoy exfoliation while minimizing side effects. Finally, masks or peels with higher concentrations should be reserved for occasional use, at most one to two times per week.
How should Typology products containing glycolic acid be used?
At Typology, we have formulated three products containing glycolic acid:
The Exfoliating Serum : Formulated with 10% glycolic acid, it also contains soothing, anti-inflammatory, and reparative ingredients such as bisabolol and chamomile extract. After a makeup removal and a thorough cleansing, apply 3 to 4 drops of serum to your face, then gently massage for a few moments to allow the active ingredients to penetrate. This treatment does not need to be rinsed, but this isn’t always the case with glycolic acid products, which is why it’s important to always read supplier instructions carefully.
The Peeling Mask : This treatment combines the action of four AHAs and one PHA to target different depths of the epidermis and eliminate dead skin cells. This gel mask is applied once or twice a week for ten minutes before being rinsed off.
The Exfoliating Night Cream : Designed for daily use, it works day after day to unclog pores, limit their dilation, and prevent the formation of blackheads.
What is the protocol for using glycolic acid in a professional skincare clinic?
Some institutes and dermatologists offer peel sessions with glycolic acid to reduce wrinkles, imperfections, and pigmentation spots, and to restore a radiant glow to the skin.
Before any glycolic acid peel session, a preliminary medical consultation is essential. The practitioner examines the skin, assesses the patient’s needs, and determines if the peel is indicated. It is also at this time they select the glycolic acid concentration, generally between 20% and 70% in-office versus 4% to 10% in cosmetic formulations, and the exposure time. A preparatory skin regimen is often recommended, involving daily application of a cream with a low concentration of glycolic acid for about fifteen days to optimize exfoliation.
The peeling session itself is relatively simple and quick. After a thorough facial cleansing, the practitioner applies the glycolic acid solution using a brush or a gauze pad. Application time is short—on average between 2 and 5 minutes—but it may be accompanied by a tingling or warming sensation. A neutralizing solution is then applied to halt the acid’s action, followed by rinsing and soothing the skin with a moisturizing cream. Each session lasts about 20 minutes, with no social downtime required, but strict sun protection (at least SPF 30) is essential in the days that follow.
Most professionals recommend three to six glycolic acid peel sessions, spaced two to three weeks apart.
Contraindications: As with any cosmetic dermatology procedure, the peel with glycolic acid is not suitable for everyone. It is not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding, in cases of known allergy, active skin lesion, or infection. Taking photosensitizing medications also constitutes a contraindication.
Sources
WON Y. H. & al. The effet of glycolic acid on cultured human skin fibroblasts : Cell proliferative effect and increased collagen synthesis. The Journal of Dermatology (1998).
MAIBACH H.I. & al. Increased in vivo collagen synthesis and in vitro cell proliferative effect of glycolic acid. Dermatologic Surgery (1998).
GARG G. & al. Chemical peeling - glycolic acid in varying concentrations and time intervals. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology (2001).
MURUGAIAH C. & al. Efficacy and safety of superficial chemical peeling in treatment of active acne vulgaris. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia (2017).
