Mature skin: what skincare routine should you adopt?

Skin is considered mature when the signs of intrinsic and extrinsic aging become predominant. This is characterized by a marked slowdown in cellular metabolism. In fact, the production of collagen and elastin decreases, leading to a loss of firmness and noticeable skin sagging, particularly around the facial contours. Wrinkles, which initially appear as expression lines, deepen and become static due to weakening of the extracellular matrix. At the same time, keratinocyte renewal slows down, resulting in a less even skin texture and a loss of radiance that is characteristic.

Moreover, mature skin also undergoes a change in its hydrolipidic film. The decline in the activity of the sebaceous glands leads to chronic skin dryness, making the epidermis more vulnerable to external stressors and promoting the onset of discomfort sensations, and even itching. On the surface, pigment disorders become more pronounced, promoted by lifelong exposure to UV radiation, which disrupts the distribution of melanin and causes the appearance of dark spots.

In short, mature skin is therefore thinner, more reactive, more marked, and drier skin, which has specific needs.

In the morning, the main goal is to help the skin defend itself against external aggressions and oxidative stress that accelerate skin aging.

1. A very gentle cleansing.

   Unlike some younger skin that may require the removal of excess sebum produced overnight, mature skin often shows a lipid deficit upon waking. Cleansing too aggressively with strong surfactants could further weaken the skin barrier. It is therefore preferable to use a rich cleansing milk or a gentle cleansing oil, which emulsify impurities while leaving a protective veil on the skin.

2. Antioxidant protection.

   Oxidative stress is the main driver of extrinsic aging. At any age, it is therefore beneficial to include antioxidants in your skincare routine—molecules capable of neutralizing free radicals. For example, you can use a vitamin C serum. In addition to fighting oxidative stress, this active ingredient stimulates collagen production, which is often reduced in mature skin.

   Advice : To maximize the effectiveness of vitamin C, you can look for formulations that combine it with vitamin E. These two active compounds show an interesting synergy, because vitamin C is able to regenerate vitamin E after it has neutralized free radicals, thereby prolonging its antioxidant activity.

3. A water supply.

   The natural water reservoirs in mature skin—specifically its glycosaminoglycans, such as hyaluronic acid—are often insufficient. To maintain comfort, it can therefore be useful to apply a serum based on hyaluronic acid, especially if it has been formulated with different molecular weights. Indeed, while high–molecular-weight hyaluronic acid forms a protective film on the skin’s surface to reduce transepidermal water loss, low–molecular-weight hyaluronic acid penetrates more deeply into the epidermis and stimulates the skin’s own synthesis of hyaluronic acid, for skin that is more supple and plumped.

4. Taking care of the eye contour area.

   The skin around the eye contour is three to five times thinner than the skin on the rest of the face and has almost no sebaceous glands. In mature skin, this very delicate area often reveals the passage of time through the appearance of crow’s feet wrinkles. It is therefore advisable to use a treatment specifically formulated for this area. You can choose a product containing peptides, retinoids, or coenzyme Q10, all of which are known for their skin-firming effects.

5. A rich cream to lock in moisture.

   The thinning of mature skin is accompanied by a weakening of the epidermal barrier, with decreased levels of cholesterol, ceramides and fatty acids. To restore it, it is advisable to use a rich day cream that contains, for example, biomimetic lipids such as squalane or ceramides. This also helps restore the skin’s elasticity and combat pruritus and the discomfort often experienced after menopause.

6. Daily photoprotection.

   Sun protection is not optional. Even for mature skin, it is the ultimate daytime skincare step. Long UVA rays penetrate down to the deep dermis, where they destroy the already scarce elastin fibers, causing what is known as solar elastosis, which gives the skin a crumpled appearance. A product with SPF 50, applied generously to the face, neck, décolleté, and backs of the hands, is the only effective barrier capable of halting the progression of existing dark spots and slowing the breakdown of the extracellular matrix.

Hands also reveal the passage of time. At the end of your skincare routine, we recommend applying a hand cream to hydrate them and protect them from environmental stressors.

Nighttime is when skin regeneration reaches its peak and the skin is shielded from external stressors. This makes it the ideal moment to use more targeted active ingredients, while continuing to strengthen the skin’s barrier function.

1. Double cleansing.

   Do a double cleanse in the evening; it is beneficial regardless of age or skin type. In addition to being highly effective at cleansing the skin, this method is gentle on the epidermis and enhances the absorption of active ingredients applied afterward. To perform a double cleanse, start by applying a cleansing oil to dissolve makeup and sunscreen filters, then gently massage before rinsing. You can then follow with a mild water-based cleanser, ideally creamy and enriched with hydrating agents such as glycerin or aloe vera. This second step removes any remaining residue without damaging the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin).

2. Exfoliation, once or twice a week.

   With age, the skin’s cell renewal cycle slows down, increasing from about 28 days to more than 45 days. This phenomenon leads to a buildup of dead cells on the surface, making the complexion appear dull and accentuating wrinkles. Regular exfoliation, limited to once or twice a week, helps reactivate this process.

   For mature skin, prioritize chemical exfoliants such as glycolic acid or gluconolactone for sensitive skin, rather than grain-based mechanical scrubs, which are often too abrasive for an epidermis that is becoming thinner. In addition, by gently removing keratinocytes from the stratum corneum, exfoliation helps gradually reduce the appearance of pigment spots.

3. Targeted care.

   Evening is the ideal time to introduce retinol, the gold-standard active ingredient for correcting signs of aging. Retinol acts both on the surface, by refining skin texture, and in the deeper layers, by stimulating fibroblasts to boost the production of collagen and elastin. In this way, it helps reduce the depth of established wrinkles. However, because retinol is a powerful molecule, it must be introduced gradually (once or twice a week at first) to allow the skin to build up its tolerance.

4. Taking care of the eye contour area.

   In the evening as well as in the morning, it is beneficial to care for the eye contour by applying a treatment formulated specifically for this delicate area.

5. Intensive nourishment with a rich cream.

   The final step in the nighttime routine is to lock in moisture and supply the lipids needed to repair the skin barrier. Since mature skin undergoes a high level of insensible water loss during the night, using a rich night cream—or even a lipid-replenishing balm—can be particularly beneficial.

   Tip : For the driest areas, you can use a plant-based oil as the final step, such as rosehip oil, which is highly valued for mature skin.

Just as in the morning, feel free to finish your routine by applying a hand cream.

• MAIBACH H. & al. Characteristics of the aging skin. Advances in Wound Care (2013).

• HASHIZUME H. & al. Skin aging and dry skin. The Journal of Dermatology (2014).

• EL-SHERBINY A. A. & al. Influences on skin and intrinsic aging: Biological, environmental, and therapeutic insights. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2024).

• ZHANG C. & al. A global perspective on the treatment and maintenance of mature skin using gentle cleansers and moisturizers. International Journal of Dermatology (2024).

• SCHLESINGER T. & al. Promoting a healthy skin barrier using skin care in people with mature skin xerosis. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2024).