Hydrafacial: a comprehensive overview of this facial and body cleansing and hydrating treatment.

The Hydrafacial treatment, also called hydradermabrasion, is an aesthetic technique for the face, neck, upper chest, back, hands, and legs. This patented nutrient-infused technology aims to restore skin radiance. This treatment can help with expression lines or fine wrinkles, firmness or elasticity concerns. It also addresses uneven skin tone or texture. It improves hyperpigmentation, enlarged pores, blackheads, and excess sebum. It consists of deep cleansing and exfoliation, impurity removal, and hydration.

The treatment Hydrafacial can be performed alone or as a complement to another spa treatment. It starts with a skin assessment to evaluate skin condition: pigmentation spots, wrinkles, sensitivity or dehydration. Thanks to its targeted effects on even tone, radiance, blemishes, and hydration, the Hydrafacial adapts to all skin types. The protocol is customizable: peel strength, active ingredients, and applicator tips are adjusted to the skin’s specific needs. On combination or oily skin, it unclogs pores. On mature skin, it helps reduce wrinkles and fine lines while firming the jawline. Sensitive and dry skin benefit from deep hydration, while skin prone to blemishes regains radiance and a smoother texture. This complete, noninvasive treatment leaves skin clearer, brighter, and revitalized. It is contraindicated for pregnant individuals and people with skin lesions or reactive skin.

A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology was conducted on 20 volunteers aged 34 to 56 years to validate the efficacy and safety of hydradermabrasion. Participants were divided into two groups (A and B). Group A underwent six hydradermabrasion sessions using a polyphenolic antioxidant serum. Sessions occurred at seven- to ten-day intervals. Group B received the same six treatments with manual application of the polyphenolic antioxidant at seven- to ten-day intervals, without hydradermabrasion. Digital photographs, skin biopsies, and skin polyphenolic antioxidant levels were obtained before and after treatment.

The results indicate that in group A, treatment resulted in increased thickness of the epidermis, the papillary dermis, and fibroblasts. The increase in papillary dermis thickness and fibroblast density suggests a heightened production of collagen and elastin, key components of skin firmness and elasticity. A significant rise in polyphenolic antioxidant levels (P < 0.01) was observed, reflecting an improved skin capacity to neutralize free radicals, the main agents of premature aging. Dermal tissue was renewed with denser collagen and fibroblast structures. Clinically, fine lines, pore size, and hyperpigmentation decreased with no reported complications. In contrast, group B showed no structural, biochemical, or clinical skin changes.

The Hydrafacial treatment lasts 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the protocol and skin’s specific needs. It follows four main steps that may vary between clinics but always aim to cleanse, purify, hydrate, and regenerate the skin.

• Skin cleansing and exfoliation.

  The first step prepares the skin by removing surface impurities, makeup, excess sebum, and dead cells that accumulate. Cleansing makes the skin ready for subsequent treatments. This step promotes cell renewal.

• Gentle exfoliation.

  This step involves applying a blend of exfoliating acids (typically glycolic acid and salicylic acid). The goal is to unclog the pores without causing irritation. Glycolic acid removes dead cells from the surface, while salicylic acid penetrates pores to dissolve sebum and prevent comedone formation. This combination provides chemical exfoliation that eases impurity extraction.

• Extraction.

  This step uses controlled vacuum suction to remove comedones, blackheads, excess sebum, and cellular debris. Compared with manual extractions that can be painful, this method is painless and nontraumatic to the skin. It reduces skin congestion, improves skin clarity, and decreases the appearance of pores.

• Hydration.

  The final step nourishes and protects the skin. Concentrated serums with antioxidants, peptides, hyaluronic acid, and other targeted actives infuse the skin. These actives restore the skin barrier, stimulate production of collagen and boost hydration. The treatment ends with an LED phototherapy session that, depending on the color used—red to boost collagen, blue to target acne, reinforces the treatment by reducing inflammation and improving blood circulation.

Although the Hydrafacial treatment, or hydradermabrasion, is known for its gentleness and compatibility with most skin types, certain contraindications must be considered. It is specifically not recommended for pregnant or breastfeeding individuals, as a precaution due to certain active ingredients used during the treatment, such as exfoliating acids. This treatment should be avoided in cases of active skin infections like herpes, inflammation, open wounds, eczema or psoriasis flare-ups, and in people with autoimmune skin conditions such as lupus, since the skin is often irritated, inflamed, or weakened. Patients who have used oral isotretinoin in the past six to twelve months should refrain, as their skin is sensitive and prone to irritation.

Sensitive or reactive skin requires prior evaluation to adapt the protocol, as do individuals who have recently undergone aesthetic procedures such as injections, chemical peels, or laser treatment. Finally, topical retinoids must be discontinued several days before the session. If in doubt, a professional skin assessment can confirm the absence of contraindications and ensure a safe, tailored treatment.

• FREEDMAN B.M. & al. Hydradermabrasion: an innovative modality for nonablative facial rejuvenation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology ( 2008).

• KARNIK J. & al. Efficacy and Tolerability of HydraFacial Clarifying Treatment Series in the Treatment of Active Acne Vulgaris. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2022).

• RAO B. & al. Hydradermabrasion through the lens of Line‐Field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography. Skin Research and Technology (2024).

• MAKINO E. & al. Efficacy and tolerability of a novel cosmetic growth factor serum when used as part of biweekly diamond tip hydradermabrasion treatments on facial skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2024).