Glycolic acid, an ally against blackheads?

The blackheads, or open comedones, are common retention lesions that mainly affect combination to oily skin. Blackheads develop when excess sebum produced by the sebaceous glands accumulates within skin pores, combined with dead cells and impurities (pollution, product residues, etc.). This buildup forms a plug that enlarges the pores. When exposed to air, the sebum oxidizes on contact with oxygen, producing the characteristic dark color of open comedones.

The blackheads are not merely unsightly: they can worsen. When they rupture, they release their contents onto the skin’s surface, or if manipulated, may become infected and develop into inflammatory lesions, such as the red, painful pimples of acne. That is why it is strongly advised against attempting to extract your own blackheads. It is better to adjust your skincare routine.

Another study explored the interest of AHAs, particularly glycolic acid, within an innovative protocol combining chemical peeling and a physical suction effect. In this work, 23 women had their faces divided into two zones: one treated solely with an AHA-based peel (2% glycolic acid and 2% lactic acid), and the other treated with the same peel combined with mechanical aspiration. The researchers measured pore dilation and the number of comedones before the intervention and then at one, two, and four weeks thereafter.

The results indicate that in the group combining peeling with a physical action, blackheads and whiteheads decreased significantly from the first week, and this improvement was maintained for up to four weeks. In the group receiving the peeling alone, a reduction trend was also observed, albeit to a lesser extent. The authors conclude that combining a gentle AHA peel with a physical action enhances efficacy against comedones, including blackheads, although using a peel alone remains effective as well.

Note: Even though the effect of glycolic acid combined with physical aspiration appears to be more effective, it is accompanied by greater risks. Indeed, the combination of the chemical action of AHAs, which temporarily weakens the skin barrier, and mechanical stimulation can increase skin sensitivity and cause redness. This type of protocol must therefore be carried out with caution, ideally under professional supervision, and is not suitable for sensitive skin or prone to irritation.