Bakuchiol is a recent active ingredient gaining popularity due to its benefits: regenerative, soothing, antioxidant, and anti-acne. You can take advantage of its virtues through various types of treatments.
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In which skincare products can we find bakuchiol?
Summary
- What is Bakuchiol?
- What are its benefits?
- In what forms and for what uses is bakuchiol available?
- In which Typology skincare products can one find bakuchiol?
- Sources
Published June 17, 2022,
updated on June 20, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
6 min read
What is Bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a natural compound extracted from the seeds and leaves of thePsoralea corylifolia (Babchi). Also known as "Bakuchi", this plant endemic to the Himalayan region has been listed for hundreds of years in the Ayurvedic pharmacopoeia, in traditional medicine.
From a chemical perspective, it is a meroterpenic phenol. It made its debut in the beauty market in 2007. Even though it does not have the same chemical structure as retinol, its functions are remarkably similar on the skin, making it a recognized alternative to vitamin A derivatives, the use of which can be accompanied by photosensitization or skin irritations.
What are its benefits?
Like retinol, bakuchiol is recommended for skin types dealing with two very specific issues.
Bakuchiol is recognized for its ability to boost the production of Type I collagen. It also limits the degradation of collagen and elastin by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). This ensures smoother and more elastic skin. Moreover, this active ingredient possesses antioxidant properties. It prevents the appearance of aging signs by neutralizing free radicals. As a reminder, these are highly reactive molecules generated by various factors (stress, pollution, smoking...) that degrade the proteins and healthy cells of the skin, accelerating the appearance of aging signs. Furthermore, bakuchiol regulates the overproduction of melanin, helping to diminish the appearance of brown spots that may appear over the years.
Bakuchiol effectively combats Propionibacterium acnes, a microorganism involved in the emergence of skin imperfections. Additionally, it regulates sebum production by inhibiting the hyperactivity of the sebaceous glands. It also has anti-inflammatory properties: studies show that bakuchiol has a strong inhibitory activity against COX-2, an enzyme that contributes to the formation of prostaglandins.
In what forms and for what uses is bakuchiol available?
The bakuchiol has the advantage of having no contraindications. It is gentle for sensitive skin, is not photosensitizing, and can be safely used by pregnant and/or breastfeeding women. Therefore, it easily integrates into a skincare routine, and can be used both in the morning and in the evening.
In the market, this active ingredient can be found in various types of skincare products, typically at a concentration ranging between 0.5 and 1% (the optimal concentration at which its effectiveness has been proven).
It is predominantly found in serums to reduce the appearance of wrinkles or combat blemishes.
Bakuchiol is often incorporated into treatments intended for the eye contour, to combat wrinkles and fine lines. This area of the face is very thin and subjected to numerous movements due to facial expressions, thus it shows the signs of aging more prominently (crow's feet wrinkles).
Bakuchiol can also be found in certain day and night moisturizing creams as well as in facial oils. Being lipophilic, it integrates perfectly with a vegetable oil such as sweet almond, rosehip, or sea buckthorn.
In which Typology skincare products can one find bakuchiol?
We have developed theblemish serumwith 1% bakuchiol and hazelnut vegetable oil, known for regulating sebum production and rebalancing the hydrolipidic film. Completely natural, this treatment is suitable for blemish-prone and acne-prone skin. It's worth noting, even though this serum is not photosensitizing (it does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), we recommend its use primarilyin the evening, at the end of your routine, due to its rather rich texture.
Furthermore, the wrinkle and blemish serum combines the densifying action of retinol (0.3%) with the anti-bacterial action of bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct imperfections. Synthesized by endemic Australian plants, the plant polypeptides it contains are capable of working in synergy with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. They thus help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and densify the skin. These peptides also contribute to maintaining a thick epidermis, which plays its role as a shield against the external environment.
Sources:
MARCHIO F. & al. Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2011).
BOJANOWSKI K. & al. Bakuchiol: A Retinol-Like Functional Compound Unveiled Through Gene Expression Profiling and Clinically Proven to Possess Anti-Aging Properties. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2014).
REITER P. & al. Prospective, Randomized, Double-Blind Evaluation of Topical Bakuchiol and Retinol for Facial Photoaging Clinical Trial. British Journal of Dermatology (2019).
LEVY S. & al. Clinical Evaluation of a Nature-Derived Bakuchiol Anti-Aging Moisturizer for Sensitive Skin. The Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2020).
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