Occasional Breakouts: 3 Active Ingredients to Use.

At the root of the hairs hang small "sacs", the sebaceous glands, which contain and secrete sebum. If the hair follicle is blocked by an accumulation of dead cells, the sebum cannot escape and builds up under the skin, causing a bump: this is the birth of a pimple. This environment is conducive to the proliferation of bacteria such as P. Acnes, which can cause inflammation (red pimple) and sometimes an influx of white blood cells (pus formation). According to some studies, the consumption of fast-absorbing sugars (candy, processed foods, sodas ...) and dairy products may be correlated with the emergence of new pimples.

Very mild acneis characterized by microcystic comedones and blackheads. Inflammatory lesions such as papules and pustules are infrequent but can still occur.

• The papules are inflammatory skin elements characterized by a solid consistency swelling, that is to say containing neither liquid nor pus, of small size (size from 1 to 4 mm) and of color pink to red.

• The pustules are small inflammatory lesions of the skin characterized by a well-defined and circumscribed elevation of the epidermis (diameter less than 5 mm) and topped in their center by a purulent liquid of white color or yellow.

Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (B.H.A.), known for its keratolytic action which promotes desquamation (the shedding of dead skin cells). Discovered in 1829 by the pharmacist Pierre-Joseph LEROUX, this active ingredient is commonly used in the field of skincare and in medicine. Indeed, aspirin is an ester synthesized from salicylic acid.

In cosmetics, this active ingredient can be of synthetic or natural origin. The exfoliating and anti-microbial virtues of salicylic acid make it a preferred choice for treating blemishes of all kinds, and caring for oily skin. This active ingredient works on several levels:

• Skin Cell Renewal :

  Salicylic acid stimulates skin regeneration. Thanks to its keratolytic properties, it removes dead cells from the skin's surface and inhibits pore blockage that leads to acne. Thus, it effectively combats the emergence of blackheads and tightens pores for a brightened and unified complexion.

• Prevention of Bacterial Development :

  The surface of the epidermis can be colonized by harmful microorganisms that disrupt the microbiota and lead to redness, irritation, or sometimes painful pimples. Thanks to its properties as anantiseptic, salicylic acid prevents the proliferation of harmful bacteria, such as Cutibacterium acnes, a microorganism responsible for the inflammatory reactions of acne.

• Pain Relief :

  Acne-prone skin is often a source ofdiscomfort. Pimples can cause tingling, itching, and burning sensations. The soothing virtues of salicylic acid alleviate symptoms related to inflammation. Indeed, salicylic acid plays a role in the arachidonic acid cascade and inhibits the synthesis of prostaglandins E2, molecules responsible for inflammatory and painful effects. In the treatment of acne, it thus soothes painful pimples and visibly reduces redness.

Our local blemish serum is concentrated at 2% salicylic acid. It is also enriched with zinc (1%), a sebum-regulating and antimicrobial trace element. It is applied locally, in small amounts after your daily face serums . Generally, one drop is enough for a single pimple. The first results will be observable after three days. Potentially sensitizing, we recommend applying this product only in the evening.

Theniacinamideis a water-soluble derivative of thevitamin B3. It helps to restore the skin's barrier function and participates in the healing process. It reduces marks and redness left by blemishes, such as acne scars. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties, niacinamide is a choice active ingredient for improving the overall appearance of blemish-prone skin.

We have developed several formulas containing this multifunctional active ingredient.

• The unifying serum Niacinamide 12% helps to reduce redness and blemishes while refining the skin's texture. This serum should be applied morning and evening to a face that has been previously cleaned and dried. An application for 4 weeks is necessary to see its effects.

• The unifying toner contains 7% niacinamide and helps to even out the complexion and reduce redness and blemishes. Its pH, which is similar to that of the skin, helps to rebalance the skin's pH after the makeup removal/cleansing stages.

• The unifying cleansing gel is concentrated with active ingredients to reduce redness associated with blemishes and even out the complexion while cleansing the skin of impurities. The gentle, plant-based surfactants that make up this gel are non-drying and cleanse the skin without damaging its hydrolipidic film. The skin is left feeling soft, supple, and comfortable.

For a long time, retinol has been a favored solution in the treatment of acne in both teenagers and adults. However, this compound can be harsh on sensitive skin and/or skin already weakened by acne breakouts.

For about a decade, studies have been focusing on the comprehensive anti-acne action of bakuchiol. It operates on several levels.

• It reduces inflammation.

  Inflammation is another issue for skin affected by acne. Unfortunately, there are few options available to directly alleviate the inflammation that accompanies acne. However, studies show that bakuchiol has a strong inhibitory activity against COX-2, an enzyme that contributes to the formation of prostaglandins, hormones that mediate inflammation.

• It fights against P. acnes.

  A study shows that bakuchiol exhibits excellent inhibitory activity against P. acnes, and it is highly effective in inhibiting other microorganisms such as Staphylococcus and Candida.

• It limits the excessive production of sebum.

  Excess sebum clogs the skin's pores, allowing bacterial growth that leads to inflammation, infection, and visible acne. Bakuchiol works by reducing the secretion and thus the activity of an enzyme, 5-α-reductase. This enzyme converts testosterone into DHT, which binds to the androgen receptors of the sebaceous glands and causes an excessive production of sebum.

• It promotes the healing of micro-lesions.

  It has been demonstrated that acne-prone skin contains higher levels of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) than so-called normal skin. These enzymes, primarily collagenase and elastase, degrade the matrix in the acne lesion and thus slow down the healing of skin affected by acne. Topical application of bakuchiol inhibits the activity of these enzymes, preventing them from hindering the healing of micro-lesions left by acne pimples.

We have developed theblemish serumwith 1% bakuchiol and hazelnut vegetable oil, known for regulating sebum production and rebalancing the hydrolipidic film. Completely natural, this treatment is suitable for blemish-prone and acne-prone skin. It's worth noting, even though this serum is not photosensitizing (it does not increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), we recommend its use primarilyin the evening, at the end of your routine, due to its rather rich texture.

A pilot clinical study has shown that bakuchiol effectively reduces acne, but is more effective when combined with salicylic acid. According to the results, formulations containing 1% bakuchiol and 2% salicylic acid demonstrated a reduction of nearly 70% in acne lesions and inflammation.

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• Ratan K. Chaudhuri, Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin, Cosmetics & Toiletries, (2011).

• E Papakonstantinou et al, Matrix metalloproteinases of epithelial origin in facial sebum of patients with acne and their regulation by isotretinoin, J Invest Dermatol, (2005).

• M Pechere, L Germanier, G Siegenthaler, JC Pechere and JH Saurat, The antibacterial activity of topical retinoids: The case of retinaldehyde, Dermatol, (2002)

• BOISSY R.E. & al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology (2002).

• GEHRING W. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2004).

• KREFT D. & al. Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2014).