Biphasic repairing serum: when dermatology meets minimalism.

Formulating a treatment for reactive skin requires an in-depth understanding of skin physiology and heightened vigilance against potential irritants. Typology chose to integrate a dermatologist’s expertise from the very first stages of development.

In your opinion, what benefits does direct collaboration between a dermatologist and a brand bring to the development of a skincare formulation like this?

Dr. AMODE’s Response: "The direct collaboration between a private-practice dermatologist and a brand in the design of a cosmetic product is a well-established approach. Early dialogue, beginning with the identification of the need, made it possible to propose a practical solution to a commonly encountered issue: the hydration of reactive skin as well as pathologically atopic skin types (rosacea, eczema, etc.).

The dermatologist brings scientific expertise on the structure and function of normal and pathological skin, identifies ingredients to avoid for tolerance or allergenicity reasons, applies empirical insights into patient needs gained through direct contact (hygiene and skincare habits, formulation preferences, etc.), and offers a comparative assessment of market-available cosmetics and their real-world tolerability.

How has this approach enriched the final result?

Response from Dr. AMODE: "My involvement from the very beginning of the project enabled an unbiased search for active ingredients. We conducted an initial brainstorming session without consideration for formulation or industrial constraints. This kind of approach fosters innovation. We then adopted a biomimetic and minimalist strategy to respect the skin’s physiology. Avoiding chemical components that cause unpleasant sensations served as our guiding principle."

The serum was formulated to address the needs of skin with an impaired barrier function.

In your opinion, what are the primary concerns of dry, atopic, or rosacea-prone skin?

Answer from Dr. AMODE: "Discomforts (stinging, tingling, burning, itching, redness) significantly diminish the quality of life of patients with reactive skin. Atopic skin exhibits a barrier function defect that results in dryness and inflammatory flare-ups. Patients prone to rosacea experience visible, unpleasant flushing episodes, and their cosmetic management closely resembles that for reactive skin. Finding a product that is pleasant, well tolerated, and provides lasting hydration for these patients is a true challenge—we had to meet it."

How would you define an impaired skin barrier?

Response from Dr. AMODE: "The impairment of the skin barrier explains the dysfunction of atopic skin. It is a qualitative and quantitative defect of the lipid film that leads to increased permeability to environmental irritants and allergens. The result is dry skin (xerosis) and inflammatory flare-ups."

What are the causes/triggering factors and the manifestations?

Dr. AMODE’s response: "Sensitive or reactive skin is defined by the onset of abnormal sensations (stinging, tingling, burning, itching) in response to factors that are not expected to provoke them, in the absence of any skin disease. The skin may then appear red. Triggering factors vary and are specific to each individual: water, cold, heat, dry air, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, as well as hygiene products or cosmetics. Skin dryness is a commonly encountered aggravating factor."

In light of these findings, the choice of a biphasic formulation emerged as the clear solution, guaranteeing both restorative efficacy and maximum tolerance.
Still relatively rare in moisturizers, this texture offers significant benefits for compromised skin.

Together, we opted for a biphasic formulation. What makes this galenic form particularly interesting and effective for compromised skin?

Dr. AMODE’s Response: "The biphasic format offers the advantage of requiring neither surfactants nor emulsifiers to maintain the formula’s stability. For particularly reactive or atopic skin, this simplified composition can reduce the risk of discomfort.

Although these agents are generally well tolerated, some may potentially trigger symptoms or further compromise the skin barrier. Excluding these components, even the gentlest ones, provides an additional measure of safety.

Moreover, this galenic formulation allows mimicking the function of the hydrolipidic film. One phase contains humectant agents that hydrate with natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), while the other contains occlusive agents (lipids) that provide the barrier function and limit water loss."

In a minimalist approach, each ingredient has been selected for its precise function in repairing and protecting the skin barrier. The goal: to provide the skin with components it naturally recognizes and utilizes.

You participated in selecting the key ingredients for this formula. Why include FNH, hyaluronic acid, and squalane?

Dr. AMODE’s response: "It is the understanding of skin function that guided us in this choice, using a biomimetic approach. Reproducing the FNH constituted the first step. The hyaluronic acid was added to the aqueous phase for its hygroscopic properties, namely its ability to retain water. The choice of plant-derived squalane to supplement the lipid barrier was driven by its high formulation stability and excellent tolerance. Its very low comedogenicity is also an asset for combination to oily skin."

Formulating a reparative treatment for compromised skin requires a delicate balance: delivering visible efficacy while ensuring optimal tolerance. This bi-phase repair serum achieves this with a streamlined, physiologically based formula.

How can the composition of this serum ensure both high reparative efficacy and good tolerability on reactive skin?

Dr. AMODE’s Response: "The absence of surfactants and the minimalist formula are essential prerequisites for ensuring tolerability. Depending on individual needs, this serum can serve as the sole hydrating treatment of the day or be integrated into an existing routine and supplemented with a moisturizing cream. The complementarity of the two phases enables hydration and its sustained retention over time, in a pleasant, non-sticky formulation that promotes compliance."

Two formulation choices further enhance tolerability: a physiological pH, respectful of skin homeostasis, and fragrance-free, ensuring optimal compatibility with the most reactive skin.

Beyond the theoretical framework, the serum’s efficacy was evaluated through a usage test and a self-assessment study conducted on a representative panel. The results confirm the hypotheses formulated during the development phase.

• Usage test: Users report a significant improvement in skin comfort as early as the initial applications. The biphasic texture is appreciated for its lightness and rapid penetration. No residual greasiness is reported.

  91% of the panel report that their skin is soothed from the first use.

• Self-assessment: Across the entire panel, the majority reported decreased sensations of discomfort (tingling, tightness) and improved tolerance compared to their usual moisturizing regimens. Atopic skin types showed reduced skin dryness, while rosacea-prone skin types exhibited diminished diffuse redness.

  88% of volunteers reported that their skin was more hydrated immediately upon application of the product.

  88% of volunteers reported that the product reinforces the skin barrier day after day.

Although this serum was formulated for compromised skin, its minimalist, biomimetic profile lends it a notable versatility.

Ultimately, for which type of patients would you recommend the use of this biphasic restorative serum?

Dr. AMODE’s Response: "This bi-phase serum is highly versatile. It can be recommended as a daily moisturizer for reactive or sensitive skin, atopic skin, and normal skin. It may also be used to complement acne treatments (providing compensatory hydration) and for post-procedure care (e.g., dermatological laser treatments, etc.)."

This universality stems from a formulation that respects skin physiology. Whereas some treatments can over-stimulate the skin, this serum simply restores its natural balance. An approach equally suitable for both pathological skin conditions and normal skin seeking a minimalist yet effective care regimen.