New: A treatment designed for rosacea-prone skin

New: A treatment designed for rosacea-prone skin

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Profile: Niacinamide.

Commonly known as: Niacinamide, nicotinamide, vitamin PP, vitamin B3, nicotinic acid amide, pyridine 3-carboxylic acid amide.
I.N.C.I. list name: Niacinamide.
Extraction process: Hydrolysis of 3-cyanopyridine catalyzed by a base, followed by purification through ion exchange, water removal by evaporation, and drying.
Source: Synthetic.
Botanical name: /
Family: /
Part of the plant extracted: /
Provenance, origin: China.
Chemical characteristics: An aromatic compound composed of a pyridine ring with a primary amide in the meta position; Water-soluble vitamin; Soluble in water, alcohol, and glycerol; Insoluble in oil; Density: 1.4 g/cm3; Molecular weight: 122.13 g/mol.
Characteristics: Emulsion, colloidal solution, true aqueous solution, balm, hydroalcoholic solution, aerosol, oil, suspension.
Dosage required in cosmetic products: A minimum of 0.1%; the maximum is not regulated.
Function: Smoothing agent.
Properties: Soothing, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, astringent, brightening, depigmenting, moisturizing, photoprotective, regenerating, sebum-controlling, and complexion-unifying.
Benefits: All skin types, particularly problematic oily skin (enlarged pores, pimples, etc.), dry and dehydrated skin, skin prone to redness, and skin with hyperpigmented spots; All hair types.

Details

Properties

  • Antibacterial: Inhibiting the growth of Propionibacterium acnes, a bacterium involved in the pathogenesis of acne;

  • Anti-inflammatory: To soothe and calm skin prone to inflammation or redness, particularly by reducing the synthesis of pro-inflammatory cytokines;

  • Antioxidant: Protecting the skin from the attack of free radicals, known to trigger the formation of premature aging signs, by increasing the levels of NAD and NADP cofactors within the cells;

  • Astringent: Reducing the size of enlarged pores back to their original size by decreasing the amount of sebum produced by the sebaceous glands;

  • Brightening: Diminishing the appearance of brown spots by inhibiting the transfer of melanin from the melanosomes located at the base of the epidermis to the neighboring epidermal cells (keratinocytes);

  • Moisturizing: Reducing transepidermal water loss and maintaining moisture content in the skin by strengthening the skin's barrier function, supported by an increase in ceramide production in the stratum corneum and an acceleration of keratinocyte differentiation;

  • Photoprotective: Decreasing the incidence of new skin cancers by enhancing the energy of cells irradiated by sunlight, reducing the level of immunosuppression induced by UV radiation, and improving DNA repair;

  • Firming: Reducing the appearance of wrinkles and improving skin elasticity by stimulating the natural production of collagen in the dermis and epidermal proteins (keratin, filaggrin, and involucrin);

  • Sebostatic: Balancing the excess sebum production, thereby controlling the formation of acne lesions and the obstruction of pores.

Applications

  • Facial Care (serums, face creams, sun care, soothing tonics, cleansing gels, eye contour treatments);

  • Body Care (moisturizing lotions/balms);

  • Hair Care (shampoos) ;

  • Makeups (foundations, concealers, complexion correctors);

  • Hygiene (deodorants, cleansing oils).

Preservation Method

Store in a dry place at a temperature below 77°F, and protect from moisture and direct sunlight.

Contraindications, Usage Precautions

In topical formulation, niacinamide is a safe compound with rare side effects. It is also well tolerated by all skin types. Minor side effects listed include slight redness, tingling, and warming sensations. To limit these discomforts, always remember to perform a skin test in the crook of your elbow, on the inside of your wrist, or behind the ear for 24 hours before applying to a larger area.

Find out more

Niacinamide is one of the two forms of Vitamin B3, with niacin (nicotinic acid) being the other. Water-soluble, Vitamin B3 was first described in 1873 by Hugo WEIDEL. Not stored in the body, its primary source is diet (meats, liver, leafy green vegetables, wheat, oats, legumes, mushrooms, yeasts, fish, etc.). However, it is essential for the body's proper functioning, as a dietary deficiency can lead to a severe disease called pellagra. Indeed, it is necessary for the production of the pyridinic coenzymes NAD and NADP, which act as energy transfer molecules in numerous metabolic reactions. In dermatology, nicotinamide has been used for over 40 years to treat a wide range of dermatological disorders (rosacea, acne, prevention of photoaging, hyperpigmentation, etc.) thanks to its numerous properties.