Peeling skin after a tanning session: what steps should be taken?

Desquamation is a natural skin regeneration process that normally occurs every 28 days. It enables the skin to eliminate dead cells, namely corneocytes, from its surface by shedding them as flakes. This phenomenon is normally invisible to the naked eye. However, it is not uncommon after a tanning session to observe a excessive desquamation. It is a defense and skin-rebuilding process whose hydration has been severely disrupted after sun exposure.

Indeed, the UV rays weaken the skin barrier on multiple levels. They damage the hydrolipidic film, the protective veil composed of sebum and sweat that maintains skin hydration, and trigger free radical formation in epidermal cells. These radicals specifically target the lipids of the stratum corneum, in particular unsaturated fatty acids whose double bonds are susceptible to oxidation. This process, known as lipid peroxidation, disrupts membrane structure and reduces cell-to-cell cohesion. As a result, the stratum corneum becomes more permeable and allows more water to escape. The skin dries out, feels tight, and then peels.

Skin peeling after a tanning session is therefore the result of skin dehydration coupled with an accelerated repair process.

When the skin starts to peel after sunbathing, the very first instinct is to restore its water and lipid balance. To do so, we recommend applying a cream or balm twice daily to compensate for water loss resulting from the alteration of the skin barrier. It is advisable to choose formulas that contain both humectants, such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, which capture moisture from the environment and retain it in the stratum corneum, and emollients, which soften the skin by filling the intercellular gaps between corneocytes. To halt skin flaking, using plant oils and butters, such as shea butter and avocado oil, can also be beneficial. This will help strengthen the hydrolipidic film and reduce sensations of tightness.

To prevent and counteract peeling skin after tanning, we also recommend applying an after-sun lotion.

Moisturizing, lipid-replenishing, soothing... The after-sun products offer numerous benefits for the skin and can help when it starts to peel. Their refreshing texture immediately soothes overheated skin, while their richness in lipid-replenishing and hydrating agents helps restore the skin barrier damaged by UV radiation. Some after-sun products also contain anti-inflammatory actives, such as aloe vera or panthenol, which can calm redness and limit inflammation caused by oxidative stress. These hydrating and soothing effects of after-sun products allow them to prevent and reduce skin peeling, which also helps prolong your tan.

When the skin begins to peel after intense sun exposure, it is not uncommon to experience sensations of warmth, tightness, or itching. In this context, applying cold compresses is a soothing measure that provides immediate relief. Cold exerts a vasoconstrictive effect, meaning it temporarily narrows the superficial blood vessels, thereby limiting the circulation of inflammatory mediators in skin tissues. This helps reduce erythema, the sensation of heat, and minor itching caused by post-UV inflammation. Applying a cold compress can be repeated several times a day but should not replace moisturizing treatments, which are essential for skin regeneration.

That said, ensure you do not apply a cold compress directly to peeling skin, as this could further compromise its barrier function. It is preferable to wrap the compress in a clean cloth.

When the skin begins to peel after a tanning session, it means it has undergone a significant disruption of its skin barrier. This visible peeling reflects a loss of adhesion between corneocytes resulting from inflammation caused by UV rays. In response, the skin activates multiple repair mechanisms, leading to accelerated removal of dead cells. During this regeneration phase, the skin is highly vulnerable. Returning to sun exposure, even with protection, would subject it to additional stress that could prolong its peeling.

If your skin peels in response to sunlight, it indicates skin damage. It is therefore advisable to avoid further exposure and allow the skin time to regenerate.

If you still wish to take advantage of sunny days, we recommend opting for protective clothing that covers yet remains breathable : long-sleeved shirts, loose pants, cotton or linen fabrics, and a wide-brimmed hat to shield your face will be your allies. At the same time, a broad-spectrum sunscreen. It is, of course, essential. Contrary to some misconceptions, applying sunscreen to peeling skin is not harmful, provided you choose a gentle, alcohol- and fragrance-free formula suitable for sensitive or compromised skin.

To avoid further weakening skin that is already peeling, it is recommended to avoid very hot showers, advice that actually applies at all times. Hot water tends to disrupt the hydrolipidic film, to increase insensible water loss and to slow down the restoration of the skin barrier. A study published in 2022 specifically investigated the effect of hot water exposure on the barrier function of the skin in 50 volunteers. The results showed that hot water significantly increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), rising from 25.75 g·h⁻¹·m⁻² to 58.58 g·h⁻¹·m⁻², and induced redness. In comparison, cold water had a lesser impact, only slightly increasing TEWL from 25.75 g·h⁻¹·m⁻² to 34.96 g·h⁻¹·m⁻², and did not produce a significant effect on erythema.

Repeated or prolonged exposure to hot water impairs the skin’s barrier function, especially when it is already compromised and peeling after sun exposure.

Under normal circumstances, it is beneficial to exfoliate your skin. This gesture promotes cellular renewal, enhances complexion radiance, and optimizes active ingredient penetration. However, when your skin is peeling after sunburn or prolonged exposure, it is strongly recommended to temporarily suspend this practice. Indeed, the desquamation occurring after tanning is not comparable to the mere removal of accumulated dead cells: it corresponds to a skin repair mechanism during which altered keratinocytes are shed by the epidermis. In this context, performing a scrub, whether mechanical, enzymatic, or chemical, risks stripping already fragile skin, but also exacerbating local inflammation. While this does remove detached flakes, it also prematurely discards cells that are still essential for rebuilding the skin barrier.

It is best to wait until the skin has finished peeling and fully regenerated before resuming exfoliation.

Peeled skin often tempts you to remove dead skin flakes manually. However, it’s best to refrain, as you risk ending up with red, irritated skin that will take even longer to heal. Manually stripping off flakes amounts to disrupting the skin’s natural repair process. The small dead skin flakes on the epidermal surface will naturally slough off within a few days, revealing fresh, healthy skin.

• REED J. C. & al. Sunburned skin activates inflammasomes. Trends in Cell Biology (2008).

• RICHTER K. & al. Oxidative stress in aging human skin. Biomolecules (2015).

• TFAYLI A. & al. Studying the effects of suberythemal UV doses on human stratum corneum by in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy. European Journal of Dermatology (2022).

• ARIAS-SANTIAGO S. & al. Impact of water exposure and temperature changes on skin barrier function. Journal of Clinical Medicine (2022).