What are the benefits of peptides for the skin?

Peptides are small proteins, typically containing less than 100 amino acids. In terms of their I.N.C.I. nomenclature, Greek qualifying prefixes are used. For example, di-, tri-, tetra-, pentapeptides refer to peptides of 2, 3, 4, and 5 amino acids in length, and so on. There are several variations: acetyl tetrapeptide-15, hexapeptide-2, acetyl tetrapeptide-9, alanyl glutamine, acetyl tetrapeptide-11, acetyl hexapeptide-1, tetrapeptide-2, carnosine, cyclopeptide-5...

In skincare, peptides can be classified into four categories:

• The oligopeptides (or carrier peptides) provide trace elements to the skin to stimulate collagen.

• Enzyme inhibiting peptides slow down the action of enzymes that degrade certain skin proteins (collagen, elastin, filaggrin) or even glycosaminoglycans like hyaluronic acid.

• The signal peptides send messages to stimulate the production of certain proteins such as collagen, elastin, or even hyaluronic acid.

• The neurotransmitter peptides are often compared to "botox" due to their inhibitory activity on the release of toxins that induce muscle contraction and expression lines.

peptides act on various targets involved in supporting and enhancing skin density to limit skin aging:

• Stimulate cellular proliferation.

  Certain peptides such as theacetyl tetrapeptide-11 increase cellular density, while also accelerating skin regeneration. The skin then gains in volume and the appearance of fine lines is diminished.

• Combatting oxidative stress.

  Other peptides such as the cyclopeptide-5 have a strong antioxidant activity. Thus, they inhibit the formation of free radicals, extremely reactive oxygen-derived species, which degrade healthy skin cells and proteins, accelerating its aging.

• Stimulating the production of collagen and elastin.

  As a reminder, with age, the activity and number of fibroblasts decrease. This results in a reduction in the production of collagen and elastin, which are responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. This then leads to a skin laxity, a sagging of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles that become, over the years, more numerous and deeper. The peptides that boost the synthesis of collagen and elastin are the palmitoyl tripeptide-5, theacetyl tetrapeptide-9, theacetyl tetrapeptide-2, the tripeptide-10 citrulline or the Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76.

• Maintaining skin hydration.

  Oligopeptides can penetrate cells and deliver minerals, such as calcium, manganese, and iron. This helps to promote collagen production in order to improve skin elasticity and hydration. Moreover, certain peptides stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid, resulting in hydrated, plump, and smoother skin.

Among our skincare products, ourredensifying complex contains three different peptides. These act simultaneously on various targets involved in the support and density of the skin. Theacetyl tetrapeptide-9 works on the lumican protein to strengthen the skin's structure. Theacetyl tetrapeptide-11 acts on a protein present on the skin's surface to smooth it. The cyclo tetrapeptide-24 (INCI name: "Cyclotetrapeptide-24 Aminocyclohexane Carboxylate") is an antioxidant and helps to combat free radicals.

We have also designed a hyperpigmentation and firmness serum that combinestranexamic acid at a high concentration (5%) with acetyl tetrapeptide-2, a multi-functional peptide, to reduce the appearance of pigment spots and firm the skin. The tetrapeptide-2 stimulates the synthesis of key molecules involved in skin support and firmness: elastin, collagen, and fibrillin. It also inhibits certain reactions in the melanogenesis process, thus reducing brown spots. Finally, it has a strong antioxidant power that ensures skin protection against free radicals and revives its natural glow.

Finally, ourwrinkle and blemish serum combines the densifying action of retinol (0.3%) with the anti-bacterial action of bakuchiol (1%) to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and correct blemishes. Synthesized by endemic plants of Australia, it also contains plant-based polypeptides capable of working in synergy with retinol to promote the synthesis of type I collagen. They thus help to reduce the depth of wrinkles and densify the skin.

• LINTNER K. Peptides : What else ? Cosmeticobs (2014).

• SCHAGEN S. K. Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics (2016).

• FERREIRA M. S. & al. Trending anti-aging peptides. Cosmetics (2020).

• PERLIKOWSKA R. Signal peptides - Promising ingredients in cosmetics. Current Protein & Peptide Science (2021).

• Dr. KRIVOSHIEV B. Peptides and proteins in cosmetics. Biorius.