What Are the Dangers of Polyglutamic Acid?

Polyglutamic acid is derived from the polymerization of an essential amino acid present in our body, L-glutamic acid. However, polyglutamic acid is not present in our body. It was first isolated in the body of marine jellyfish; it stores water in the fragile tissue of these animals in order to avoid dehydration accelerated by their presence in salt water. Today, PGA in cosmetic products is most often extracted from the mucilage of Nattô, traditional Japanese food with a sticky, pasty consistency obtained from the fermentation of soybeans.

Formerly used to accelerate the healing process of more or less serious wounds and burns, polyglutamic acid is now used for its moisturizing benefits in skincare. It forms a protective film on the surface of the epidermis, protecting it from external aggressions and limiting insensible water loss. In addition, PGA is a polymer capable of unfolding by capturing water molecules to create a network called a microgel. Through this humectant mechanism, it retains water in the surface layer of the epidermis.

Polyglutamic acid is referenced under the INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) designation “Polyglutamic Acid” and is defined as a skincare agent.