In Which Care Products Can You Find Polyglutamic Acid?

Polyglutamic acid (PGA) is formed by the polymerization of the amino acid L-glutamic acid. This biopolymer was first found in the organism of the sea jellyfish, later researchers pointed out its presence in the slime of fermented soybeans, a traditional Japanese dish called "Nattô".

PGA is an excellent moisturizer for the skin. It forms a protective film on the surface of the epidermis, which limits the evaporation of water and protects the skin from external influences. It also has excellent moisturizing properties. When PGA is applied to the skin, it expands and traps water molecules; this molecular structure is called a microgel.

PGA also fights skin dehydration by inhibiting the action of the enzyme hyaluronidase, which is responsible for breaking down hyaluronic acid. As a reminder, hyaluronic acid is a molecule found mainly in the dermis (deep layer of the skin), that gives the skin its plumped appearance. Over the years, not only does its content decrease, but its quality also changes. This leads to atrophy of the fat pockets in the depth of the dermis, which are responsible for the formation of wrinkles and fine lines on the surface of the skin. Thus, by inhibiting the activity of the enzyme hyaluronidase, polyglutamic acid prevents skin dehydration and the appearance of signs of aging.

Even though it is a new active ingredient, more and more galenics contain polyglutamic acid and are now sold on the cosmetics market. This active ingredient is mainly found in aqueous serums, but can also be present in creams, lotions, tonics or night masks. Due to its film-forming properties, it can also be found in some foundations.

In general, the claims made for products containing this ingredient relate to moisturizing the skin and softening and/or preventing wrinkles. To observe its effects on the skin, polyglutamic acid must be concentrated to at least 0.1% in a cosmetic formula.

Note: Since it is an acid, an elbow test is recommended before each application. In case of intolerance, avoid using skin care products containing polyglutamic acid.