What are the potential dangers of squalane?

The squalane is a lipid obtained through hydrogenation of squalene, a lipid naturally produced by the sebaceous glands and accounting for about 15% of human sebum. This chemical reaction makes the molecule more stable. Indeed, unlike squalene, whose carbon chain contains oxidation-prone double bonds, the squalane has a saturated structure. This ability of squalane to retain its properties over time without becoming rancid or transforming is one of the reasons it is preferred over squalene in cosmetics.

The squalane is particularly valued for its nourishing and emollient properties, which help it maintain the balance of the skin’s hydrolipidic film, reduce transepidermal water loss, and impart suppleness to the skin. By reinforcing the skin’s barrier function, this active ingredient also helps protect against external aggressors such as temperature changes, wind, and pollution. Although it is suitable for all skin types, squalane is especially beneficial for dry skin or skin prone to tightness.

The safety of squalane was recently evaluated by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR), an independent panel of scientific experts responsible for assessing the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics. According to their findings, squalane presents no risk to human health at the concentrations used.

Moreover, this active ingredient exhibits an excellent affinity for the skin, due to its chemical kinship with human sebum. It integrates easily into the hydrolipidic film, without disrupting the skin’s balance. Irritation reactions—such as redness, itching, or tingling—are very rare, and no clinical study has reported any significant adverse effects. However, as with any cosmetic active, it is advisable to perform a skin tolerance test before the first application.

Often mistakenly considered comedogenic because of its oily texture, squalane nevertheless does not clog pores and penetrates relatively rapidly into the epidermis. It is therefore suitable for both oily and dry skin, although it is particularly beneficial for the latter. Finally, squalane presents no contraindications for pregnant or breastfeeding women, because it is an inert, non-hormonal, non-systemic ingredient, meaning it is neither absorbed into the bloodstream nor metabolized by the body.

Historically, the squalane was derived from shark liver oil, one of the richest natural sources of squalene. In fact, it was in this substance that it was first isolated in the early 20th century by a Japanese chemist. However, this practice led to a true ecological disaster : a 2012 study estimated that nearly three million sharks are killed each year to meet the international demand for squalane, primarily driven by the cosmetics industry. Despite existing bans in certain regions, such as within the European Union, hunting continues elsewhere around the world, contributing to the decline of species already listed on the IUCN Red List, the International Union for Conservation of Nature.

However, there are now perfectly equivalent plant-based alternatives obtained from sugarcane, olive, wheat, or palm. Chemically identical to the animal-derived version, plant-based squalane provides the same properties and efficacy without compromising marine biodiversity. Its slightly higher production cost is the only reason for its partial substitution in some formulations. Note that on the INCI list only the term "Squalane" appears, with no indication of origin: it is therefore important to ensure that the brand specifies a 100% plant origin.

At Typology, we exclude any animal-derived squalane: the squalane used in our skincare products is exclusively derived from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil or sugarcane.

• ALLISON A. C. Squalene and squalane emulsions as adjuvants. Methods (1999).

• KARADENIZ F. & al. Biological importance and applications of squalene and squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research (2012).

• Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety assessment of squalane and squalene as used in cosmetics. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (2019).