What does it signify to have AP(+) skin?

Skin aging: ABSENT

Oxidation factors: PROTECTED

Sebum production: ELEVATED (+)

The letter "A" indicates that AP(+) skin does not yet exhibit any signs of aging, that is, neither wrinkles, nor fine lines, nor visible skin laxity. This skin type, often under 30 years of age, benefits from rapid and efficient cellular turnover: keratinocytes regularly regenerate, ensuring a smooth and homogeneous epidermis, while the dermis continues to produce collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, which allows the skin to remain supple and hydrated.

Although skin aging is a natural and inevitable process, it can be delayed. Skin "A" still retains functional efficiency, but external factors, such as sun exposure or tobacco, can accelerate the appearance of wrinkles if no preventive measures are taken.

The letter “P” indicates that the skin is protected against oxidative damage, especially those caused by the sun. Excessive sun exposure is in fact the primary cause of premature skin aging and represents a major risk factor for the development of skin cancers. UVA rays penetrate deeply into the dermis, mainly damaging elastic fibers, while UVB rays mostly affect the epidermis by disrupting keratinocytes and damaging DNA. These two types of rays trigger the formation of free radicals, unstable molecules that oxidize lipids, proteins, and DNA, thereby disrupting cellular function, accelerating cell death, and potentially causing long-term mutations.

Faced with these assaults, the skin has certain defense mechanisms: melanogenesis, which produces melanin to absorb part of the UV rays, and the endogenous antioxidant system, which neutralizes some free radicals. "P" skins are minimally exposed to oxidizing factors and have good habits of photoprotection (using antioxidants, applying sunscreen daily, limiting exposure during peak sun intensity hours, etc.). These measures help preserve skin integrity and prevent oxidative stress.

AE(+) skin is characterized by a production of sebum naturally high (hyperseborrhea). This excessive secretion is primarily physiological in origin, determined by hormonal activity, although it is also influenced by environmental factors (body temperature, circadian rhythm, use of certain medications, a diet rich in fats and sugars, stress...).

Although this skin type is protected by a hydrolipidic film functional barrier that covers the entire skin surface, this sebum production dysregulation can lead to insecurities, notably with a greasy, shiny appearance, a higher risk of developing pimples and blackheads, enlarged pores, an uneven skin texture due to imperfections that create a microrelief, and a dull complexion resulting from poor light reflection. However, thicker and more resilient to environmental aggressions, “+” skin is less prone to premature aging.

An AP(+) skin exhibits naturally high sebum production while remaining well protected against oxidative stressors. This skin type therefore benefits from an effective skin barrier but requires a skincare regimen that helps prevent excess shine.

In the morning, you should start by removing excess sebum from the skin, without being too harsh. To do this, use a cleanser that is gentle, formulated at physiological pH, and preserves the hydrolipidic film. You can then apply a toning lotion or a mattifying serum containing, for example, zinc or niacinamide to help tighten pores. Finally, a lightweight hydrating cream with a fluid texture preserves skin hydration without weighing it down. To finish, sun protection is essential, even if the skin is naturally well protected: a SPF 30 or 50 fluid with a matte finish will help prevent sebum oxidation and photo-induced skin aging.

In the evening, carry out a double cleanse, using a non-comedogenic cleansing oil and a gentle cleansing gel to dissolve sebum residues and the impurities accumulated throughout the day. You can then apply an antioxidant treatment to boost the skin’s natural defenses and finish with a lightweight moisturizer that helps maintain the skin’s hydrolipidic balance overnight.

"Very pleasant. My skin is noticeably less shiny by the end of the day. I also believe the products have halted the onset of blemishes over the weeks. They improve skin texture—confirmed!" Marie S. – AP(+) Typologist