AE(+) skin typology: what exactly is it?

Cutaneous aging: ABSENT (A)

Oxidation factors: EXPOSURE (E)

Sebum production: ELEVATED (+)

Discover here information on the 24 skin profiles defined by Typology.

The letter "A" denotes skin without visible signs of aging. Three primary manifestations typically mark the onset of aging signs: the wrinkles, the skin laxity, or loss of volume, and density loss. Generally, it’s around age 25 when these initial changes become noticeable, reflecting the progressive alterations within the different layers of the skin : a slowdown in cell renewal, decreased lipid production, reduced synthesis of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid by fibroblasts, as well as a decrease in both the size and number of adipocyte cells.

Although skin aging is a natural and unavoidable phenomenon, it is still possible to slow its progression by acting on specific factors that influence the rate of this process, notably sun exposures that generate oxidative stress in skin cells.

The second "E" corresponds to the level of skin exposure and protection against daily stressors, such as solar radiation, pollution, tobacco, stress or even alcohol. These external factors promote the formation of free radicals, unstable and highly reactive molecules capable of damaging skin cells. This production of free radicals is a normal biochemical phenomenon inherent to any living organism that uses oxygen.

However, when the production of these reactive species surpasses the skin’s natural antioxidant defense capacity, an imbalance occurs: this is oxidative stress. It then penetrates deeply, progressively altering the structures of the skin tissue. Collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, membrane lipids, and even cellular DNA become targets of repeated attacks. These cellular oxidation processes weaken the extracellular matrix and accelerate skin aging, potentially over the long term contributing to more serious conditions, such as the development of skin cancers. The first visible signs appear as the gradual onset of wrinkles, a loss of firmness, and a dull complexion.

To slow these effects and bolster the skin’s antioxidant defenses, we recommend incorporating into your skincare routine products rich in antioxidants, such as vitamin C, ferulic acid or resveratrol, alongside appropriate sun protection measures.

AE(+) skin is distinguished by a production of sebum naturally elevated, a phenomenon called hyperseborrhea. This overproduction is primarily physiological, as it depends mainly on hormonal activity, particularly androgens, which stimulate the sebaceous glands. However, several environmental and behavioral factors can amplify it: heat, circadian rhythm, use of certain medications, a diet high in sugars and fats, or stress.

This skin type benefits from a hydrolipidic film that is abundant, providing an effective skin barrier against dehydration and external aggressors. However, this excess sebum can also become a source of discomfort or insecurity. It often presents as a shiny, oily appearance, visible dilation of the pores, the frequent formation of blackheads and pimples, along with an uneven skin texture. Additionally, the complexion may appear dull because light reflects less effectively off an irregular, congested surface. Conversely, this thicker, better-protected skin generally ages more slowly, as its rich lipid film limits trans-epidermal water loss.

Caring for AE(+) skin consists in regulating sebum production without compromising the skin barrier, while protecting it from oxidation. Contrary to common misconception, you absolutely should not try to strip the skin, because overly aggressive cleansing could trigger a rebound stimulation of the sebaceous glands. It is therefore preferable to favor gentle cleansers with a physiological pH, capable of removing excess sebum and impurities while preserving the hydrolipidic film.

Moreover, the daily use of a lightweight moisturizer helps maintain the skin’s balance, even if the skin is oily. Gel-cream formulations, containing a higher proportion of humectants, such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, than emollients, such as ceramides and plant oils, are ideal for hydrating this skin type without weighing it down. Simultaneously, certain active ingredients can help rebalance sebum production and reduce inflammation, such as niacinamide, zinc or azelaic acid.

Finally, a daily sun protection is also essential for combating oxidative stress. To complement this protection, it can be useful to use antioxidant serums, for example those rich in vitamin C or ferulic acid.

"My routine has enabled me to achieve softer, clearer, and fully rehydrated skin. It’s challenging to find clean, skin-friendly formulations, but I must admit I’m completely won over by the products offered by Typology." Margaux D. – Typologist AE(+)