What is a tinted lip oil composed of?

Among the colored cosmetics, lip products are the most used.

Instead of the shiny, heavy glosses, the tinted lip oil provides a lighter, more nourishing formula with a similar effect, giving lips a glossy and plump appearance. Positioned between a lip gloss and a traditional lip balm, this hybrid product delicately tints the lips, while providing comprehensive care and optimal protection against external aggressions and dehydration. But what causes this? Tinted lip oils are oil-based monophasic products, composed solely of lipophilic elements (fatty substances). The properties they confer are due to the different ingredients used.

Film-forming agents (between 40 to 55%).

Overall, the film-forming agents contained in a tinted lip oil help to enhance the performance of lip oils and give them a pleasant feel. Indeed, they contribute to spreading and moisture retention, reduce transfers, and increase color payoff. This is due to the fact that they form a thin protective and occlusive layer on the lips to keep them hydrated, protect them from external aggressions, and improve the wear and extend the duration of the tint. These ingredients also help to thicken the formula of tinted oils, creating a smooth, viscous, and silky texture that glides easily over the lips.

Types of Film-Forming Agents : Polymers, natural waxes (carnauba, bee, candelilla, etc.), polyglycerides (Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate copolymer, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, etc.), etc.

Red pepper extract (Capsicum annuum), peppermint essential oil (Mentha piperita), black pepper extract (Piper nigrum)... these plumping agents can be added to the formula of a tinted oil, where they provide an immediate but temporary plump appearance to the lips, either through hydration, by stimulating blood circulation, or by causing a slight controlled irritation.

Emollients (between 30 to 50%).

In addition to providing consistency to the product, emollient agents offer numerous benefits in terms of lip care to keep them soft, smooth, and plump. They can help restore the natural lipid barrier, soften the skin of the lips by filling in lipid gaps, protect them from damage caused by free radicals, as well as collagen degradation. These ingredients also allow for a pleasant product texture, resulting in a non-greasy and velvety effect.

Types of Emollient Agents : Light Esters (isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, etc.), volatile silicones (dimethicone, etc.), vegetable oils (sweet almond oil, coconut oil, etc.), etc.

Some tinted oils are often made from synthetic emollients, such as mineral oils/waxes and silicones. However, their production process is "harmful" to the environment and they provide no additional cosmetic benefits.

Antioxidants (approximately 0.01%).

The vegetable oils present in the formula of lip oils are prone to oxidation when exposed to air, light, or heat. This oxidation process can lead to product deterioration, loss of effectiveness, and an unpleasant rancid odor. Antioxidants thus help to slow down or prevent this process by neutralizing the free radicals that trigger lipid oxidation. This extends the product's lifespan and ensures its stability over time. Similarly, the pigments used in tinted oils can also be sensitive to oxidation, which can lead to a color change over time. Antioxidants prevent them from deteriorating and the product from changing color when exposed to environmental factors.

Beyond merely preserving the product, they also contribute to the protection of the lips, which are sensitive to environmental aggressions (UV rays, pollution, etc.). Antioxidants thus help to neutralize free radicals and thereby prevent damage.

Types of Antioxidants : Vitamin E (tocopherols), plant extracts rich in polyphenols and flavonoids (green tea, rosemary, etc.), Vitamin C, Coenzyme Q10, etc.

Pearlescents and/or pigments (between 0.5 to 1%).

When we talk about tinted skincare, we're talking about pigments. Cherry black, powdered pink, coral orange... pigments either natural (extracted from flowers or fruits) or synthetic (iron oxides) are added to the formula to provide a subtle color as an additional touch. Adjustable, these pigments can be combined to control the intensity of the shades, to achieve undertones (cool, warm, neutral), and to create different nuances. For instance, mixing red, brown, and pink pigments can result in a nude or rosy lip shade. In addition to the color provided by the pigments, pearlescents (micas, synthetic pearlescents, etc.) can also be used in lip oils to add an extra appeal to the product by reflecting light, creating a subtle shimmering finish on the lips.

Dispersion agents (between 0.05 to 0.1%).

When pigments and pearlescents are used, the addition of suspension agents is crucial to help distribute them in the oily phase, given that oils and pigments do not naturally mix. Without them, the pigments and pearlescents could indeed clump together or settle at the bottom of the bottle, creating irregular color deposits which would impair the quality of the application. These compounds also ensure that the shade remains uniform on the lips throughout the product's use.

Types of Dispersing Agents : Esters (octyldodecanol, etc.), polyethylene glycols, etc.

To enhance the sensory experience during application, aromas and/or fragrances are often added to provide a pleasant scent or enjoyable flavor (fruity or sweet notes) during use, making the product more appealing and attractive.