Among tinted cosmetic products, lip care products are the most widely used.
Far from being sticky or heavy, the tinted lip oil is a lightweight and nourishing formula, which imparts a glossy, plump appearance to the lips. Positioned between a lip gloss and a classic lip balm, this hybrid product delicately tints the lips while providing comprehensive care and optimal protection against external stressors and dehydration. These various benefits of tinted lip oils are due to its composition. This type of product is a single-phase oil, meaning it consists exclusively of lipophilic elements, fatty substances.
The tinted lip oils are composed of film-forming agents (between 40% and 55%).
Film-forming agents are the core components of tinted lip oils. They structure the formula while optimizing application comfort. Their primary function is to create, on the surface of the lips, a homogeneous and flexible veil that enhances spreadability, wear time, and moisture retention. By forming this thin protective layer, they limit water evaporation, reinforce hydration, act as a barrier against external aggressors, and reduce product transfer.
This ability to form a continuous film also allows for intensifying and stabilizing color performance: the shade adheres more effectively to the lip surface, remains uniform longer, and fades more harmoniously. Film-forming agents also enhance the product’s sensory profile. They thicken the formula and impart a smooth, enveloping, slightly viscous texture that glides on effortlessly.
Which film-forming agents are commonly found in tinted lip oils?
Several types of film-forming agents are commonly found in tinted lip oils. Polymers (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer...) are among the most widely used. These products can also incorporate natural waxes. The most common are carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera Cera), beeswax (Cera Alba) and candelilla wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Cera). Finally, certain tinted oils use polyglycerides, multifunctional esters derived from the glycerolysis of fatty acids, such as Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, the Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate or even the Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaisostearate.
Tinted lip oils contain emollients (between 30 and 50%).
In addition to providing consistency to the formulation, emollient agents play a crucial role in maintaining lips soft, smooth, and supple. They contribute to restoring the natural lipid barrier by filling the gaps between the cells of the stratum corneum, which improves comfort and reduces dehydration. Some emollients also have antioxidant properties that help protect the lips from free radicals and the degradation of collagen. Finally, these ingredients give the tinted oil a pleasant, velvety, non-greasy texture that glides on easily while leaving a comfortable finish on the lips.
Which emollients are commonly found in tinted lip oils?
The main emollients found in the lip oil formula are light esters (Isopropyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Myristate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate...), volatile silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane...) and vegetable oils, such as plum oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil), coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil) and jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil).
For environmental reasons, at Typology, we do not use either mineral oils/waxes, nor silicones.
Tinted lip oils contain antioxidants (approximately 0.01%).
The vegetable oils in lip oil formulations are susceptible to oxidation when exposed to air, light, or heat. This oxidation process can lead to product deterioration, a loss of efficacy, and an unpleasant rancid odor. Antioxidants therefore help slow down or prevent this process, by neutralizing the free radicals that trigger the oxidation of the unsaturated fatty acids in the vegetable oils. This prolongs the product’s shelf life and ensures its stability over time. Likewise, the pigments used in tinted oils can also be sensitive to oxidation, which may lead to color alterations over time. Antioxidants thus prevent their degradation and keep the product from shifting in shade when exposed to environmental factors.
Beyond simply preserving the product, antioxidants also help protect the lips, which are sensitive to oxidative stress generated by environmental aggressors (UV rays, pollution...).
Which antioxidants are commonly found in tinted lip oils?
In lip oil formulations, it is not uncommon to encounter the following antioxidants: vitamin E (Tocopherol), vitamin C and its derivatives (Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside...), the coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone), and plant extracts rich in polyphenols and flavonoids (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract...).
Good to know : Plumping agents, such as red pepper extract (Capsicum annuum), the peppermint essential oil (Mentha piperita) or even black pepper extract (Piper nigrum), can be incorporated into the formula of a tinted oil. They provide the lips with an immediate yet temporary plumped appearance, either by moisturizing, by stimulating blood circulation, or by inducing a mild, controlled irritation.
Pearlescent pigments and/or color pigments (between 0.5 and 1%) are present in tinted lip oils.
When you say tinted skincare, you're referring to pigments. Natural (flower or fruit extracts) or synthetic (iron oxides), they are added to the formula to impart a subtle color as an extra touch. Versatile, pigments can be combined to control shade intensity, achieve undertones (cool, warm, neutral), and create various hues. For instance, mixing red, brown, and pink pigments produces a very natural, slightly rosy lip tint. In addition to the color from pigments, pearlescent pigments, such as micas, can also be used in lip oils to add extra appeal by reflecting light, creating a subtle shimmering finish on the lips.
Dispersion agents (between 0.05 and 0.1%) are present in tinted lip oils.
When pigments and pearlescent pigments are used, suspension agents must be added to help distribute them in the oil phase, since oils and pigments do not naturally mix. Without these agents, pigments and pearlescent pigments may clump together or settle at the bottom of the bottle, creating uneven color deposits and compromising application quality. Dispersing agents also ensure that the shade remains uniform on the lips throughout the product’s use.
Which dispersing agents are commonly found in tinted lip oils?
Among the dispersing agents often present in the formulation of tinted lip oils are micronized silica particles, polyethylene, magnesium stearate, and trimethylsiloxysilicate.
To enhance the sensory experience and impart a pleasant scent (fruity or sweet notes) during application, flavorings and/or fragrances are often added to tinted lip oils.