Ascorbyl Palmitate has garnered significant interest recently in the skincare industry, appearing in trace amounts in a variety of cosmetic products. But what exactly is it, and why is it so widely used? In this article, we’ll explore the advantages and disadvantages it offers if you’re considering its use.
What is “Ascorbyl Palmitate” and what is its purpose?
Summary
Published on July 10, 2024, updated on November 3, 2025, by Stéphanie, PhD, Doctorate in Life and Health Sciences — 21 min of reading
Themes:
L'essentiel à retenir sur l'Ascorbyl Palmitate.
"Ascorbyl Palmitate" est le nom INCI du palmitate d'ascorbyl, l'un des dérivés ester de la vitamine C.
Il est obtenu suite à l'association entre l'acide ascorbique (vitamine C) et un acide gras saturé à longue chaîne (acide palmitique).
L'ester palmitique possède des propriétés de pénétration cutanée et de stabilité améliorées par rapport à la vitamine C, en plus d'être moins irritant.
En tant que dérivé stable de la vitamine C, il serait doté de propriétés antioxydantes, éclaircissantes, hydratantes, séborégulatrices, anti-inflammatoires et stimulantes en application topique.
Un risque minime ou aucun effet indésirable a été constaté dans les études, aux concentrations recommandées, pour le palmitate d'ascorbyl.
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"Ascorbyl Palmitate": what is its benefit in cosmetic formulations?
The vitamin C is available in various active forms, including ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate). It is a synthetic fatty acid ester with lipophilic properties, formed from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid.
Ascorbyl palmitate has specifically been developed to overcome the stability and permeability issues of vitamin C, while preserving its benefits. Indeed, although it is one of the most powerful antioxidants, vitamin C oxidizes rapidly when exposed to light, thus failing to deliver the expected results and causing unwanted effects.
Ascorbyl palmitate is often used to help stabilize more sensitive skincare ingredients, such as pure vitamin C.
It is also known to be effective at a neutral pH, unlike pure vitamin C which requires a pH below 3.5 to improve its stability and enhance its penetration, thus making ascorbyl palmitate easier to formulate and less irritating.
| Chemical and physical properties | Values |
|---|---|
| Chemical formula | C22H38O7 |
| Synonym | Ascorbic acid-6-palmitate, vitamin C palmitate, ascorbate 6-palmitate |
| … Aspect | White and light yellow powder |
| Molar mass | 414.5 g/mol |
| Dosage | Often used between 0.05% and 1% |
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol and vegetable oils; slightly soluble in water |
However, according to a comparative study, this improved liposoluble variant of standard vitamin C appears to maintain “similar” stability to ascorbic acid. Research has even demonstrated that other forms have superior long-term stability, thereby not remaining insensitive to degradation from continuous heat exposure and aerobic conditions. Indeed, its chemical modification—namely, the addition of a lipid moiety—is located at carbon 6, thus providing less effective protection of ascorbic acid against hydrolysis.
| Forms of Vitamin C | Remaining content of vitamin C or its derivatives after 60 days of storage at room temperature | Remaining content of vitamin C or its derivatives after 60 days of storage at 42 °C |
|---|---|---|
| Pure Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) | ` tags (including the exact `37% | ` and ` 0% |
| Ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate) | `…` 77% | 47% |
| Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (INCI: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) | `…` 95% | 83% |
Stability analysis of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
Aqueous solutions containing 1% ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, or ascorbyl palmitate were stored at both room temperature and at 42°C in the dark for 60 days (accelerated aging test). Source: Bettero A. et al. Stability of Vitamin C Derivatives in Solution and Topical Formulations. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis (1997).
On the other hand, studies have shown that ascorbyl palmitate appears to readily penetrate the stratum corneum due to its lipidic nature, unlike hydrophilic ascorbic acid. However, although it achieves better skin penetration, it remains on the cell surface and therefore does not readily convert into L-ascorbic acid, the biologically active form.
Structure of ascorbyl palmitate.
Source: PubChem.
"Ascorbyl Palmitate": what is its benefit in cosmetic formulations?
The vitamin C is available in various active forms, including ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate). It is a synthetic fatty acid ester with lipophilic properties, formed from ascorbic acid and palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid.
Ascorbyl palmitate has specifically been developed to overcome the stability and permeability issues of vitamin C, while preserving its benefits. Indeed, although it is one of the most powerful antioxidants, vitamin C oxidizes rapidly when exposed to light, thus failing to deliver the expected results and causing unwanted effects.
Ascorbyl palmitate is often used to help stabilize more sensitive skincare ingredients, such as pure vitamin C.
It is also known to be effective at a neutral pH, unlike pure vitamin C which requires a pH below 3.5 to improve its stability and enhance its penetration, thus making ascorbyl palmitate easier to formulate and less irritating.
| Chemical and physical properties | Values |
|---|---|
| Chemical formula | C22H38O7 |
| Synonym | Ascorbic acid-6-palmitate, vitamin C palmitate, ascorbate 6-palmitate |
| … Aspect | White and light yellow powder |
| Molar mass | 414.5 g/mol |
| Dosage | Often used between 0.05% and 1% |
| Solubility | Soluble in alcohol and vegetable oils; slightly soluble in water |
However, according to a comparative study, this improved liposoluble variant of standard vitamin C appears to maintain “similar” stability to ascorbic acid. Research has even demonstrated that other forms have superior long-term stability, thereby not remaining insensitive to degradation from continuous heat exposure and aerobic conditions. Indeed, its chemical modification—namely, the addition of a lipid moiety—is located at carbon 6, thus providing less effective protection of ascorbic acid against hydrolysis.
| Forms of Vitamin C | Remaining content of vitamin C or its derivatives after 60 days of storage at room temperature | Remaining content of vitamin C or its derivatives after 60 days of storage at 42 °C |
|---|---|---|
| Pure Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid) | ` tags (including the exact `37% | ` and ` 0% |
| Ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate) | `…` 77% | 47% |
| Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (INCI: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) | `…` 95% | 83% |
Stability analysis of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
Aqueous solutions containing 1% ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, or ascorbyl palmitate were stored at both room temperature and at 42°C in the dark for 60 days (accelerated aging test). Source: Bettero A. et al. Stability of Vitamin C Derivatives in Solution and Topical Formulations. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis (1997).
On the other hand, studies have shown that ascorbyl palmitate appears to readily penetrate the stratum corneum due to its lipidic nature, unlike hydrophilic ascorbic acid. However, although it achieves better skin penetration, it remains on the cell surface and therefore does not readily convert into L-ascorbic acid, the biologically active form.
"Ascorbyl Palmitate": how can it help in a formulation?
Present in more than a thousand cosmetic formulations (lip balms, after-sun lotions, shampoos, facial serums, etc.), ascorbyl palmitate is believed to perform numerous beneficial functions for the skin.
Antioxidant agent: it helps protect the skin from oxidative damage caused by free radicals generated by solar radiation, smoking, diet, environmental pollution, etc. It reduces cellular free radical levels in a dose-dependent manner through a process of electron transfer and/or donation. However, its antioxidant activity has only been demonstrated in in vitro, but not in vivo.
However, a study has shown that the use of ascorbic acid-6-palmitate (10 to 100 μM) during the day would promote the generation of oxidized lipid molecules (lipid peroxidation) induced by UV rays, which would damage cells. This study suggests that, despite its antioxidant properties, ascorbyl palmitate could potentiate skin damage through this mechanism following UVB irradiation.
However, this is an in vitro study, which means it was conducted on human keratinocyte cultures rather than on actual people.
Moreover, another study found that this amphiphilic antioxidant binds to the surface of human erythrocytes, where it contributes to protecting the cell membrane from peroxidative damage caused by external oxidants and thus enhances the cell’s defenses against external oxidative stress. Therefore, further studies in vivo are needed to shed light on this issue.
Given that the sunscreen creams are only partially effective at blocking free radicals generated by UV exposure, the addition of antioxidants such as ascorbyl palmitate could help enhance sun protection efficacy.
Anti-erythema function: a first study was conducted in which individuals who had suffered sunburn and were treated with topical ascorbyl palmitate (5%) showed a 50% faster reduction in redness compared to areas that did not receive it. In a second experiment, the forearms of 5 subjects were left unprotected (controls) or received a topical application of 3% ascorbyl palmitate prior to UVB exposure. Compared to untreated skin, erythema was absent or reduced after pre-treatment with ascorbyl palmitate. These data demonstrate its photoprotective nature, probably
attributed to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
Compared to other forms of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate would exhibit hydrating properties thanks to its palmitate moiety.
Melanin production inhibitor (anti-melanogenesis): a single-center study investigating the synergistic effect of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate reported a significant reduction in melanin content after 12 weeks of application. They are presumed to interact with copper ions at the active sites of tyrosinase—the key enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin—thereby inhibiting its activity. By decreasing melanin production, these vitamin C derivatives could help to lessen the brown spots. However, although ascorbyl palmitate has been shown to potentially inhibit melanin production, studies are limited and it may not be as effective as other actives.
A clinical study involving 11 adult women showed that the combined use of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate could reduce skin sebum levels, owing to their potential to inhibit 5α-reductase.
Can ascorbyl palmitate be used safely on human skin?
Widely approved by regulatory bodies such as the FDA, ascorbyl palmitate is among the substances recognized as safe and non-irritating for most skin types at commonly used concentrations. Although data agree that it exhibits a lower irritation potential, some individuals may experience adverse reactions.
In rare cases, it may induce skin irritation, erythema, and/or dryness, especially in individuals with sensitive skin or an existing dermatological condition. Therefore, caution is advised before using this active ingredient. It is thus recommended to perform a epicutaneous test on a small area of skin before using widely products containing ascorbyl palmitate.
"Ascorbyl Palmitate": how can it help in a formulation?
Present in more than a thousand cosmetic formulations (lip balms, after-sun lotions, shampoos, facial serums, etc.), ascorbyl palmitate is believed to perform numerous beneficial functions for the skin.
Antioxidant agent: it helps protect the skin from oxidative damage caused by free radicals generated by solar radiation, smoking, diet, environmental pollution, etc. It reduces cellular free radical levels in a dose-dependent manner through a process of electron transfer and/or donation. However, its antioxidant activity has only been demonstrated in in vitro, but not in vivo.
However, a study has shown that the use of ascorbic acid-6-palmitate (10 to 100 μM) during the day would promote the generation of oxidized lipid molecules (lipid peroxidation) induced by UV rays, which would damage cells. This study suggests that, despite its antioxidant properties, ascorbyl palmitate could potentiate skin damage through this mechanism following UVB irradiation.
However, this is an in vitro study, which means it was conducted on human keratinocyte cultures rather than on actual people.
Moreover, another study found that this amphiphilic antioxidant binds to the surface of human erythrocytes, where it contributes to protecting the cell membrane from peroxidative damage caused by external oxidants and thus enhances the cell’s defenses against external oxidative stress. Therefore, further studies in vivo are needed to shed light on this issue.
Given that the sunscreen creams are only partially effective at blocking free radicals generated by UV exposure, the addition of antioxidants such as ascorbyl palmitate could help enhance sun protection efficacy.
Anti-erythema function: a first study was conducted in which individuals who had suffered sunburn and were treated with topical ascorbyl palmitate (5%) showed a 50% faster reduction in redness compared to areas that did not receive it. In a second experiment, the forearms of 5 subjects were left unprotected (controls) or received a topical application of 3% ascorbyl palmitate prior to UVB exposure. Compared to untreated skin, erythema was absent or reduced after pre-treatment with ascorbyl palmitate. These data demonstrate its photoprotective nature, probably
attributed to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
Compared to other forms of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate would exhibit hydrating properties thanks to its palmitate moiety.
Melanin production inhibitor (anti-melanogenesis): a single-center study investigating the synergistic effect of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate reported a significant reduction in melanin content after 12 weeks of application. They are presumed to interact with copper ions at the active sites of tyrosinase—the key enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin—thereby inhibiting its activity. By decreasing melanin production, these vitamin C derivatives could help to lessen the brown spots. However, although ascorbyl palmitate has been shown to potentially inhibit melanin production, studies are limited and it may not be as effective as other actives.
A clinical study involving 11 adult women showed that the combined use of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate could reduce skin sebum levels, owing to their potential to inhibit 5α-reductase.
Can ascorbyl palmitate be used safely on human skin?
Widely approved by regulatory bodies such as the FDA, ascorbyl palmitate is among the substances recognized as safe and non-irritating for most skin types at commonly used concentrations. Although data agree that it exhibits a lower irritation potential, some individuals may experience adverse reactions.
In rare cases, it may induce skin irritation, erythema, and/or dryness, especially in individuals with sensitive skin or an existing dermatological condition. Therefore, caution is advised before using this active ingredient. It is thus recommended to perform a epicutaneous test on a small area of skin before using widely products containing ascorbyl palmitate.
"Ascorbyl Palmitate": how can it help in a formulation?
Present in more than a thousand cosmetic formulations (lip balms, after-sun lotions, shampoos, facial serums, etc.), ascorbyl palmitate is believed to perform numerous beneficial functions for the skin.
Antioxidant agent: it helps protect the skin from oxidative damage caused by free radicals generated by solar radiation, smoking, diet, environmental pollution, etc. It reduces cellular free radical levels in a dose-dependent manner through a process of electron transfer and/or donation. However, its antioxidant activity has only been demonstrated in in vitro, but not in vivo.
However, a study has shown that the use of ascorbic acid-6-palmitate (10 to 100 μM) during the day would promote the generation of oxidized lipid molecules (lipid peroxidation) induced by UV rays, which would damage cells. This study suggests that, despite its antioxidant properties, ascorbyl palmitate could potentiate skin damage through this mechanism following UVB irradiation.
However, this is an in vitro study, which means it was conducted on human keratinocyte cultures rather than on actual people.
Moreover, another study found that this amphiphilic antioxidant binds to the surface of human erythrocytes, where it contributes to protecting the cell membrane from peroxidative damage caused by external oxidants and thus enhances the cell’s defenses against external oxidative stress. Therefore, further studies in vivo are needed to shed light on this issue.
Given that the sunscreen creams are only partially effective at blocking free radicals generated by UV exposure, the addition of antioxidants such as ascorbyl palmitate could help enhance sun protection efficacy.
Anti-erythema function: a first study was conducted in which individuals who had suffered sunburn and were treated with topical ascorbyl palmitate (5%) showed a 50% faster reduction in redness compared to areas that did not receive it. In a second experiment, the forearms of 5 subjects were left unprotected (controls) or received a topical application of 3% ascorbyl palmitate prior to UVB exposure. Compared to untreated skin, erythema was absent or reduced after pre-treatment with ascorbyl palmitate. These data demonstrate its photoprotective nature, probably
attributed to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
Compared to other forms of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate would exhibit hydrating properties thanks to its palmitate moiety.
Melanin production inhibitor (anti-melanogenesis): a single-center study investigating the synergistic effect of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate reported a significant reduction in melanin content after 12 weeks of application. They are presumed to interact with copper ions at the active sites of tyrosinase—the key enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin—thereby inhibiting its activity. By decreasing melanin production, these vitamin C derivatives could help to lessen the brown spots. However, although ascorbyl palmitate has been shown to potentially inhibit melanin production, studies are limited and it may not be as effective as other actives.
A clinical study involving 11 adult women showed that the combined use of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate could reduce skin sebum levels, owing to their potential to inhibit 5α-reductase.
Can ascorbyl palmitate be used safely on human skin?
Widely approved by regulatory bodies such as the FDA, ascorbyl palmitate is among the substances recognized as safe and non-irritating for most skin types at commonly used concentrations. Although data agree that it exhibits a lower irritation potential, some individuals may experience adverse reactions.
In rare cases, it may induce skin irritation, erythema, and/or dryness, especially in individuals with sensitive skin or an existing dermatological condition. Therefore, caution is advised before using this active ingredient. It is thus recommended to perform a epicutaneous test on a small area of skin before using widely products containing ascorbyl palmitate.
Sources
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BETTERO A. & al. Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis (1997).
NEEMAN I. & al. Acylated ascorbate stimulates collagen synthesis in cultured human foreskin fibroblasts at lower doses than does ascorbic acid. Connective Tissue Research (1998).
ANDERSEN F. A. Final report on the safety assessment of ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, erythorbic acid, and sodium erythorbate. Amercian College of Toxicology (1999).
MAY J. M. & al. Ascorbate 6-palmitate protects human erythrocytes from oxidative damage. Free Radical Biology and Medicine (1999).
PECAR S. & al. Skin protection against ultraviolet induced free radicals with ascorbyl palmitate in microemulsions. European Journal of Pharmaceutics and Biopharmaceutics (2003).
MOYANO M. A. & al. Stability of vitamin C derivatives in topical formulations containing lipoic acid, vitamins A and E. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2008).
KARMEE S. K. Biocatalytic synthesis of ascorbyl esters and their biotechnological applications. Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology (2009).
STAMFORD N. P. J. Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2012).
NAWAZ Z. & al. Synergistic effects of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate loaded in multiple emulsions on facial skin melanin and erythema content. Biomedical Research (2016).
ALI A. & al. Assessment of combined ascorbyl palmitate (AP) and sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) on facial skin sebum control in female healthy volunteers. Drug Research (2017).
WILSON L. & al. Synthesis with immobilized lipases and downstream processing of ascorbyl palmitate. Molecules (2019).
HELDRETH B. & al. Safety assessment of ethers and esters of ascorbic acid as used in cosmetics. International Journal of Toxicology (2022).
SHEN Q. & al. Ascorbyl palmitate: A comprehensive review on its characteristics, synthesis, encapsulation and applications. Process Biochemistry (2024).
