"Ascorbyl Palmitate": What Is Its Role in Cosmetics?

The essential facts to remember about ascorbyl palmitate.

"Ascorbyl Palmitate" is the INCI name of ascorbyl palmitate, one of the ester derivatives of vitamin C.
It is obtained following theassociation between ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and a long-chain saturated fatty acid (palmitic acid).
The palmitic ester has enhanced skin penetration and improved stability compared to vitamin C, and is less irritating.
As a stable derivative of vitamin C, it would have antioxidant, lightening, hydrating, sebum-regulating, anti-inflammatory, and stimulating properties when applied topically.
A minimal risk or no adverse effect was observed in studies at the recommended concentrations for ascorbyl palmitate.

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"Ascorbyl Palmitate": What benefits does it offer in cosmetic formulations?

The vitamin C is available in various active forms, including ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate). By definition, it is a synthetic ester derivative of ascorbic acid with lipophilic properties, formed from vitamin C and palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid.

Anecdote : Ascorbyl palmitate was commercialized for the first time in the 1960s as an antioxidant in the food and pharmaceutical industries. The credit for its discovery remains debated between two prominent scientists: the American chemist Lloyd A. HALL known for his work elucidating oxidation processes in lipid-rich foods, and Dr. Albert SZENT-GYÖRGYI, the Hungarian biochemist and Nobel laureate, renowned for discovering ascorbic acid and its antioxidant properties.

Structure du palmitate d'ascorbyl. — Structure of ascorbyl palmitate.
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Ascorbyl palmitate has notably been developed to overcome the stability and permeability issues of the vitamin C, while preserving its benefits. Indeed, although it is one of the most powerful antioxidants, vitamin C oxidizes rapidly when exposed to light, thus no longer yielding the expected results and potentially causing undesirable side effects.

One of the primary advantages of ascorbyl palmitate over its analogues is its solubility. This ascorbic acid ester exhibits amphiphilic properties, with both hydrophilic and lipophilic characteristics, enabling it to dissolve in aqueous and lipid solutions.

It is also known to be effective at a neutral pH, unlike pure vitamin C which requires a pH below 3.5 to improve its stability and facilitate its penetration, making ascorbyl palmitate easier to formulate and less irritating.

Chemical and physical characteristics	Values
Chemical formula	C22H38O7
Synonym	Ascorbic acid-6-palmitate, vitamin C palmitate, ascorbate 6-palmitate, vitamin C ester, L-ascorbic acid 6-hexadecanoate, 6-O-palmitoyl-L-ascorbic acid, palmitoyl L-ascorbic acid
Aspect	White and pale yellow powder
Molar mass	414.5 g/mol
Dosage	Often used at concentrations between 0.05% and 1%
Solubility	Soluble in alcohol and lipids; slightly soluble in water

However, according to a comparative study, this enhanced liposoluble variant of ordinary vitamin C appears to retain a "similar" stability to ascorbic acid. Research has even shown that other forms possess better long-term stability, thus not remaining not immune to degradation from continuous exposure to heat and aerobic conditions.

Indeed, its chemical modification, namely the addition of a lipid component, is located at carbon 6, thus providing less protection for ascorbic acid against hydrolysis. However, some data indicate that the stability of ascorbyl palmitate varies according to the structure of the formulated system: gel creams would offer better stability for this ingredient than oil-in-water emulsions.

Furthermore, studies have revealed that theencapsulation of ascorbyl palmitate in liposomes can help protect the active ingredient and improve its stability, as well as facilitate its penetration through the stratum corneum.

Forms of Vitamin C	Remaining content of vitamin C or its derivatives after 60 days of storage at ambient temperature	Remaining vitamin C or its derivative content after 60 days of storage at 42 °C
Pure Vitamin C (INCI: Ascorbic Acid)	37%	0%
Ascorbyl palmitate (INCI: Ascorbyl Palmitate)	… 77%	`/` 47%
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (INCI: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate)	95%	83%

Stability analysis of ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

Aqueous solutions containing 1% ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, or ascorbyl palmitate were stored both at room temperature and at 42 °C in the dark for 60 days (accelerated aging test). Source: BETTERO A. et al. Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis (1997).

In contrast, publications have shown that ascorbyl palmitate appears to penetrate the stratum corneum easily due to its lipophilic nature, unlike hydrophilic ascorbic acid. However, even though it offers improved skin penetration, it tends to remain on the cell surface and therefore does not readily convert into L-ascorbic acid, the biologically active form.

"Ascorbyl Palmitate": how can it be beneficial in a cosmetic formulation?

Found in over a thousand cosmetic products (lip balms, after-sun lotions, shampoos, facial serums, pre-shave lotions, etc.), ascorbyl palmitate alone combines certain recognized properties of…ascorbic acid and palmitic acid.

Antioxidant agent : Unlike water-soluble vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate, a lipophilic and amphipathic form, can associate with the cell membrane where it helps to protect membrane lipids from peroxidation. In an in vitro study on human erythrocytes, May et al. (1999) demonstrated that ascorbyl palmitate binds to the outer surface of cells and helps preserve α-tocopherol (vitamin E) and unsaturated fatty acids from oxidation induced by external oxidants. This mechanism relies on its ability to scavenge free radicals and regenerate vitamin E in its active form, thereby limiting membrane damage. These observations support its role as a lipid antioxidant protector, although further in vivo studies are required to confirm these biological effects.
Indirect anti-inflammatory function: A first study was conducted in which subjects who had experienced sunburn and were treated with 5% topical ascorbyl palmitate exhibited approximately a 50% faster reduction in erythema compared to untreated areas. These results were corroborated by a clinical trial in Asian women, where local application of a topical formulation combining ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate significantly decreased facial erythema. The researchers attributed the observed effects to the antioxidant activity of ascorbyl palmitate: by attenuating the oxidative signal, it inhibits the activation of pro-inflammatory mechanisms.
Melanin production inhibitor (anti-melanogenesis): A clinical study conducted on 33 Asian women evaluated the effect of an emulsion combining ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate on skin pigmentation. After 12 weeks of application, the results showed a significant decrease in melanin content, suggesting a synergistic depigmenting action of the two vitamin C derivatives.
This result can be attributed to their antioxidant activity: by neutralizing free radicals, they limit the activation of signaling pathways that stimulate tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin synthesis. By thus reducing oxidative stimulation of melanocytes, this combination could help attenuate the dark spots. However, this study has several limitations: it is the only study available, conducted on a combination of two vitamin C derivatives in a small cohort of participants without pigmentary skin disorders.
Although ascorbyl palmitate has been shown to potentially exert a lightening and anti-melanogenic effect—attributed to its antioxidant activity—current evidence remains limited, requiring further research to confirm the specific efficacy of ascorbyl palmitate.
Collagen synthesis stimulator: In 1998, a study in vitro on human foreskin fibroblast cultures demonstrated that ascorbyl palmitate can stimulate collagen synthesis at concentrations between 5 and 20 μM, i.e. at lower doses than ascorbic acid. This level of production was comparable to that obtained with 100 μM of ascorbic acid.
Cells treated with 10 μM 6-O-palmitoyl ascorbate for 36 hours showed a collagen production three times higher than that observed with 10 μM vitamin C.
One possible explanation for its superior efficacy at low doses is its lipid-soluble nature and the greater oxidation resistance of ascorbyl palmitate, which allows it to maintain higher and more prolonged concentration levels within cells compared to conventional ascorbic acid. By supporting collagen production, it may thus contribute to maintaining skin firmness and elasticity.
Sebum production regulatory potential (sebum-regulating): A clinical study conducted on 11 adult women demonstrated that the combined use of ascorbyl palmitate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate in an emulsion led to a reduction in facial skin sebum levels after three weeks of application, due to their potential to inhibit 5α-reductase and their capacity to neutralize free radicals responsible for lipid peroxidation. This action could be beneficial for combination to oily skin types.
Compared to other forms of vitamin C, ascorbyl palmitate is believed to have hydrating properties due to its palmitate moiety.

What are the benefits of ascorbyl palmitate for hair?

In hair care products, ascorbyl palmitate is primarily known for protect and help stabilize sensitive active ingredients in hair dyes against oxidation, as an antioxidant at concentrations between 0.01% and 0.2%. However, to date, no specific study has demonstrated its direct effects on the hair fiber or scalp.

However, by extrapolating from its documented cutaneous effects, it could theoretically help delay the appearance of oxidation-related white hair in melanocytes and contribute to preserving keratin quality through its antioxidant properties. However, these benefits remain hypothetical and require specific clinical studies for confirmation.

How is ascorbyl palmitate, used in cosmetics, obtained?

Ascorbyl palmitate is produced by esterification reaction between ascorbic acid and palmitic acid, a saturated fatty acid composed of 16 carbon atoms and glycerol. There are two main methods to obtain this liposoluble antioxidant. The chemical route is the method traditionally most used in industry. It typically involves the esterification of ascorbic acid with palmitic acid in the presence of a catalyst, often of concentrated sulfuric acid or hydrofluoric acid. However, this process generally requires a high energy input, namely elevated temperature for an extended period—up to 10 to 24 hours—and can generate by-products that complicate purification of the final product.

The modern alternative is enzymatic synthesis, considered a more environmentally friendly process. This approach employs biocatalysts, notably immobilized lipases, to catalyze the direct esterification of ascorbic acid with palmitic acid in a non-aqueous medium (acetone, acetonitrile, 2-methylbutan-2-ol, etc.). Lipases are preferred because they offer high regioselectivity and allow milder reaction conditions (for example, around 55°C), which reduces byproduct formation, facilitates purification, and ensures high product purity.

Can ascorbyl palmitate be safely used on human skin?

Largely approved by regulatory bodies such as the FDA, ascorbyl palmitate is among the substances acknowledged as safe and non-irritating for most skin types at commonly used concentrations. Although data agree that it exhibits a lower irritation potential, some individuals may experience adverse reactions.

In rare cases, it may cause skin irritation, erythema, and/or dryness, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin or preexisting skin conditions. Therefore, it is advisable to proceed with caution before using this active ingredient. It is thus recommended to perform a patch test on a small area of the body before using on a larger scale products containing ascorbyl palmitate.