In the summer, the skin endures numerous assaults (UV rays, chlorine, sea water). Therefore, it needs to be protected and soothed. So, what are the cosmetic ingredients/actives to favor in the summer? Elements of the answer in this article.
Which cosmetic ingredients should be prioritized in summer?
Summary
Published on June 27, 2022, updated on February 21, 2024, by Sandrine, Scientific Editor — 6 min of reading
Themes:
The nourishing and hydrating ingredients/actives.
Moisturizing Ingredients/Actives
No matter the skin type, the skin needs water to maintain its suppleness and elasticity. Hydration is essential to prevent premature skin aging. However, in the face of certain external aggressions such as the sun's UV rays, the skin dehydrates quickly. In response to this, after sun exposure, it is important to pay special attention to skin hydration in order to compensate for the insensible water loss (IWL) that intensifies during exposure to the sun's UV rays. Moreover, optimal hydration helps to prolong one's tan.
Thus, it is essential to provide the skin with hydrating actives such ashyaluronic acid, provitamin B5, niacinamide, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), glycerin, polyglutamic acid...
Nourishing Ingredients/Actives
Exposure to the sun and swimming weaken the hydrolipidic film of the skin and dry out the skin. The skin barrier can no longer perform its protective role against dehydration and external aggressions.
Thus, nourishing active ingredients will strengthen the skin barrier by providing lipids which reduces insensible water loss and increases protection against external aggressions.
Thus, it is essential to provide nourishing active ingredients such as the squalane, vegetable oils, vegetable butters...
Take note : hydration goes hand in hand with nutrition! Hydrating agents saturate the skin with water, and nourishing agents prevent this water from evaporating.
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The ingredients/active antioxidants.
UV rays from the sun are the most significant risk factor for premature skin aging characterized by a premature appearance of wrinkles, and pigment spots along with a loose and dried-out skin.
Antioxidants are a family of molecules that enable the skin to combat oxidative stress caused by external factors such as UV rays. The skin is thus better protected against these external aggressions responsible for premature aging. In addition, antioxidants brighten and even out the complexion and reduce the formation of pigmented spots.
This family includes vitamin C, theferulic acid, the resveratrol etc...
Soothing ingredients/actives.
The UV rays from the sun can be harsh on the skin. Excessive or unprotected sun exposure carries a significant risk of sunburn and irritation.
Therefore, it is beneficial to incorporate soothing ingredients/actives todiminish redness andinflammation and reduce feelings of discomfort.
Among the soothing ingredients/actives, we find the centella asiatica, the pro-vitamin B5, the aloe vera, the hemisqualane, the vitamin E, the niacinamide...
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA).
During the summer, certain cosmetic ingredients should be avoided. This is the case, for example, with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as glycolic acid. These are highly valued for their keratolytic properties, meaning they remove dead cells from the skin's surface promoting skin renewal. These are essential ingredients for blemished and dull skin. However, the AHAs are photosensitizing and irritating. Therefore, sun exposure before or after using AHAs could lead to a risk of burns, irritation and the appearance of pigmentation spots.
If you wish to exfoliate your skin during the summer, the PHA (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid) will be more suitable. Indeed, due to their high molecular weights, they remain on the surface of the epidermis. This explains their good skin tolerance compared to AHA. Moreover, unlike AHA, PHAs are not photosensitizing .
Sources
YUENG H. & al. Sunburn frequency and risk and protective factors : a cross-sectional survey. Dermatology Online Journal (2021).
HEARING V. J. & al., Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2010).
N. Puizina-Ivic. Skin aging (2008).
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