Which eye contour product should you choose at 40?

The eye contour at 40 years old is often weakened by the years. Indeed, it is observed that at 40 years old, the eye contour has lost about 25% of collagen, 10% of elastin, and 50% of hyaluronic acid that it had at 20 years old. These different molecules play an important role in the structure of the skin. The collagen and elastin are protein support fibers that provide flexibility, elasticity, and firmness. As for hyaluronic acid, it is a biomolecule ensuring its hydration, density, and tonicity.

Furthermore, around the age of forty, the synthesis of ceramides begins to decrease. These lipids of the stratum corneum play a barrier role in the epidermis where they act as an intercellular cement. As a result, the skin becomes more fragile and is more prone to dryness issues. It also loses structure and becomes hollowed out.

Typically, the eye contour is the area of the face where the first signs of aging manifest and where the infamous crow's feet wrinkles appear, taking the form of grooves carved from the outer corner of the eye to the temples. These expression lines are common at 40 years old and result from the overuse of facial muscles, for speaking, smiling, or squinting, as well as various biological changes that occur in the skin over time. Thus, at 40 years old, wrinkles are quite pronounced and deep, even at rest, and the skin slackens, under the eye contour, leading to the formation of adipose bags or hollow dark circles, and at the level of the eyebrow arch.

During quarantine, the main concern is todiminish existing wrinkles and continue to slow down skin sagging. Although cosmetics cannot perform any miracles, tightening eye contour treatments help to tone the skin and delay its sagging.

However, it is crucial to continue moisturizing this delicate area to limit water loss, which is, among other things, responsible for fine lines. Thus, alternate between these two types of care, relying on a moisturizing treatment in the morning to enhance the look and compensate for the lack of water, and a firming treatment in the evening to strengthen the area and assist the skin in regenerating overnight.

During quarantine, we aim to hydrate the eye contour and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. The star hydrating ingredient in eye care remains the hyaluronic acid. Generally, we distinguish two types. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid stays on the skin's surface and creates a protective film, similar to the hydrolipidic film naturally present on the skin. The other type found in cosmetics is said to be low molecular weight, it penetrates deeper into the epidermis where it strengthens and stimulates the natural production of hyaluronic acid. For better effectiveness, some eye contour treatments combine these two forms of hyaluronic acid. You can also rely on other hydrating active ingredients, such as squalane, aloe vera gel, or glycerin.

Also consider using an eye contour treatment that contains firming and tightening active ingredients, such as retinol, bakuchiol, or Q10. These various ingredients are recognized for their action on wrinkles and various signs of aging. However, it should be noted that the application of retinol is not recommended if you have sensitive skin and this active ingredient should be used exclusively in the evening, due to its photosensitizing nature. Regarding their mode of action, the tightening actives work by stimulating the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Retinol, for example, is metabolized into retinoic acid once absorbed by the skin and binds to retinoid X receptors, triggering a cascade of reactions leading to the stimulation of fibroblast activity. However, firming treatments are not miracle products. They somewhat reduce the depth of wrinkles but will not be able to make them disappear.

Note : After applying the eye contour treatment, it is important to protect the entire face with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, including the area around the eye. Being very thin, it easily allows UV rays to penetrate. You can also opt for an eye contour treatment containing SPF.

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• PUIZINA-IVIC N. Skin aging. Acta dermatovenerologica Alpina, Pannonica, et Adriatica (2008).

• ROBERT A. M. & al. Le vieillissement cutané - rôle de l'élastine. Médecine et longévité (2009).

• ROTSZTEJN H. & al. The eye area as the most difficult area of activity for esthetic treatment. Journal of Dermatological treatment (2022).