Eyebrow makeup: What are the tips and mistakes to avoid?

Before you apply makeup to your eyebrows, it's crucial to ensure that their shape suits you and fits your facial features. This will only enhance their appeal more, giving your eyebrow makeup a more natural and precise look.

The three-point trick is often suggested to determine the ideal eyebrow shape. This involves placing a ruler, or an eyebrow pencil, between the wing of the nose and the inner corner of the eye, and then marking a point at the root of the eyebrow. Next, place the ruler between the wing of your nose and the center of your pupil: this gives you the highest point of the arch. Finally, going from the wing of your nose towards the outer corner of your eye, mark the last point corresponding to the end of the eyebrow. Linked together, these three markers define a guideline to structure the eyebrow in a balanced way.

Once this shape is determined, you can, if you wish, pluck your eyebrows to achieve it. However, be careful to proceed very cautiously, hair by hair, in order to avoid ending up with sparse areas. For a more precise result, it's better to use tweezers rather than wax, especially if you're a beginner.

Finally, before moving on to eyebrow makeup, we recommend grooming them by brushing. Done with an eyebrow brush or a mascara-type brush for eyebrows, this step helps to direct the hairs and makes the application of eyebrow makeup products easier for the eyebrows, whether it's an eyebrow pencil, an eyebrow marker, or a setting gel.

For beautiful eyebrow makeup, it's important to equip oneself with the right tools, selected according to the result you wish to achieve.

Not all products have the same function or provide the same results, and their selection depends on your proficiency level, the density of your eyebrows, and the desired effect, whether you want something natural, structured, or more intense.

Among the most popular products are the eyebrow pencil and the eyebrow mascara, both items can be used individually or combined for a more intricate makeup application. The former is applied to the skin - not to the hair, contrary to what one might sometimes think - and the purpose is to redraw and restructure the eyebrow line. The eyebrow pencil is particularly useful for filling in thin or sparse areas, or recreating a base. Eyebrow pencils with hair-like effects, equipped with a fine tip, allow for precise strokes that imitate natural hairs, making them an excellent option for a natural eyebrow makeup or for individuals with less brow volume.

Tip : If you are a beginner, we recommend using a beveled tip pencil, meaning one sharpened obliquely instead of at a right angle, because it is easier to apply. Moreover, the fineness of the tip will allow you to achieve a natural hair-by-hair effect.

The eyebrow mascara, on the other hand, is applied directly to the hairs. This allows adding volume, texture and disciplining the line. Depending on its shade, it can lightly color the eyebrows and enhance their intensity. As far as clear eyebrow mascaras are concerned, they may be used to fix the hairs without adding color, especially if your line is already well-defined. Conversely, a tinted gel or colored eyebrow mascara would be more suitable to visually enhance thin eyebrows.

If you desire to achieve greater precision, an eyebrow marker serves as an intriguing alternative. Its fine tip allows you to draw clear lines, which are ideal for recreating a hair-by-hair effect, especially in the case of sparse eyebrows. However, its usage demands a bit more skill: if the motions are hesitating, the result may appear less natural than with a pencil.

Other textures also exist. Gel-creams, often more pigmented, are applied with a brow brush and allow intense structuring of the line. They are more suitable for sophisticated makeup or very sparse eyebrows. On the other hand, powders provide a more diffuse and blended finish, ideal for a discreet and natural result. Finally, some tools, like the eyebrow stencil, can help guide the application, especially for beginners or in the case of difficulty defining a symmetrical shape.

The choice of the product also depends on your comfort level.

If you're a beginner or looking for a simple result, the eyebrow pencil remains the most accessible option. If you find the output too marked or difficult to blend, a lighter eyebrow powder or gel can offer a softer finish. Conversely, if your eyebrows are very sparse and you are proficient in the movements of eyebrow makeup, combining several products - for example, a pencil to structure, then a gel to set - allows for more uniform results.

Today, there are numerous shades available for eyebrow makeup. If you're comfortable with makeup application or if you want a more creative look, it's entirely possible to play with colors and textures. However, for a natural-looking eyebrow makeup, it's advisable to choose a shade close to your natural color. The goal is to redefine the line without creating too much contrast.

If you're hesitating between two shades, it's better to go for the lighter one: a color that's too dark can harden the features of the face and give a rigid appearance.

The shade selection should also consider the hair color and the skin undertone. For instance, blond or light brown hair is generally paired with slightly ashy tints, while darker hair can handle more intense shades, provided they stay close to the color of the eyebrow. It's also important to adjust the shade to the product used : an eyebrow pencil deposits more material than a powder or a brow gel, which can intensify the color. Lastly, in the case of very light, greying, or barely visible eyebrows, the use of a tinted gel in blond tones will better define the eyebrow while maintaining a natural appearance.

Semi-permanent eyebrow makeup encompasses several techniques such as microblading, microshading, and eyebrow dermopigmentation. They involve implanting pigments into the superficial layers of the skin to redefine the eyebrow line. Microblading allows for a very realistic hair-like effect, while microshading provides a more powdered look, similar to that achieved with powdered eyebrow makeup. Dermopigmentation, broader in its approach, encompasses various methods of pigmentation depending on the desired effect. It's worth noting that eyebrow tattooing, historically deeper and more permanent, is currently being supplanted by these more natural and adaptable semi-permanent techniques, the results of which last approximately three months.

These techniques can be particularly useful in several situations: when the eyebrows are very sparse, asymmetrical, or not very visible, or even when certain areas no longer regrow. They can also suit people who wish to simplify their eyebrow makeup routine or have difficulty applying makeup to their eyebrows on a daily basis. In the case of nearly non-existent eyebrows, semi-permanent makeup allows for the recreation of a basic structure, subsequently facilitating the potential application of an eyebrow pencil or gel to adjust the intensity.

However, semi-permanent eyebrow makeup is not harmless and requires prior consideration.

The achieved result strongly depends on the professional's expertise, the choice of shape and shade, as well as the skin's reaction to the pigments. Over time, the color can change, lighten or slightly alter in tone, which implies the need for regular touch-ups. Furthermore, certain skin types, particularly sensitive ones or those prone to skin conditions, may respond differently. Therefore, it is crucial to gather information ahead of time, perform a test if necessary, and turn to a qualified practitioner in order to achieve a harmonious result that suits the individual's facial structure.

The removal of eyebrow makeup is a step that is sometimes overlooked, yet it is crucial for maintaining the balance of the skin and the quality of the hairs. Eyebrow makeup products contain pigments, waxes, and film-forming agents intended to ensure their hold. When not properly removed, these residues can build up on the surface of the skin and at the level of the hair follicles, encouraging pore obstruction and potentially altering the hair growth cycle. In the long run, this can contribute to weakening the eyebrows, or even accentuating their sparse look.

However, caution is necessary: makeup removal should not weaken the eyebrows and should be done with a gentle product, suitable for the sensitive area of the eye contour.

You can, for instance, use a cleansing oil, applying it with clean fingertips by gently massaging the area, without excessively rubbing. This type of texture effectively dissolves the pigments and fatty substances in makeup while respecting the hair fiber. Then rinse with clear water to eliminate any residue.

A micellar water can also be suitable, particularly for light makeup. Soak a cotton pad, then apply it for a few seconds on each eyebrow to give time for the micelles to solubilize impurities. Afterwards gently slide the cotton pad in the direction of hair growth to remove residuals without weakening the eyebrows or irritating the skin.

Note : An effective eyebrow cleansing also enhances the efficiency of the treatments later applied on the eyebrows, such as serums or oils.