The dandruff corresponds to an excessive shedding of the scalp, visible as white or yellowish flakes, sometimes accompanied by itching or discomfort. It results from an accelerated turnover of scalp keratinocytes, often linked to local inflammation and an imbalance of the skin microbiome. Among the microorganisms involved are yeasts of the genus Malassezia, which are naturally present on the scalp but whose overgrowth disrupts the skin barrier and accelerates keratinocyte renewal.
The active ingredients used to reduce dandruff generally work on two fronts: reducing scalp inflammation and controlling the proliferation of Malassezia.
In this context, the vegetable nigella oil, extracted from black cumin seeds, has attracted interest. Long used in traditional medicine, it is rich in unsaturated fatty acids and bioactive compounds, including thymoquinone. If the nigella oil is primarily recognized for its nourishing properties, it also possesses anti‐inflammatory and antioxidant activities, which could theoretically help soothe an irritated scalp prone to dandruff.
From a mechanistic standpoint, the anti-inflammatory effects of black cumin have been extensively studied, especially with oral intake. A meta-analysis pooling 20 clinical trials with a total of 1,086 participants shows that supplementation withNigella sativa allows to significantly reduce multiple inflammation markers and oxidative stress. A marked decrease in C-reactive protein, TNF-α, and malondialdehyde, a lipid peroxidation marker, was observed, alongside a significant increase in endogenous antioxidant capacities, such as glutathione peroxidase and superoxide dismutase activities. These findings suggest that black cumin modulates specific inflammatory pathways—mechanisms that could be relevant in cases of scalp inflammation due to dandruff, although extrapolation to topical use remains to be discussed.
However, when examining the effect of black cumin oil on Malassezia, the picture is more nuanced. The antifungal properties of black cumin are primarily attributed to the thymoquinone it contains. A study in vitro evaluated various Nigella sativa oils with varying levels of thymoquinone and free fatty acids to observe their antimicrobial activity against several microorganisms, including Malassezia furfur. The results show that the inhibition of Malassezia furfur growth is maximal when the oil contains a high concentration of thymoquinone (around 3%) combined with a low proportion of free fatty acids. Conversely, oils with lower thymoquinone levels display significantly reduced antifungal activity. These data confirm that the observed antifungal effect closely depends on the thymoquinone content of black cumin oil.