Eye Contour: Does Glycolic Acid Combat Dark Circles?

Glycolic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane, is widely used in skincare due to its exfoliating properties. Its small molecular size allows it to penetrate the skin, breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells and promoting cell turnover. This mechanism can lead to brighter skin and the reduction of pigmentation, making GA a potential solution for dark circles caused by hyperpigmentation. This exfoliating action removes the build-up of dead skin cells that can make the skin appear dull, uneven, and darker in tone. By encouraging the shedding of this outer layer, glycolic acid promotes the emergence of new, healthier skin underneath. This process of skin cell turnover helps reveal a brighter and more uniform complexion, reducing the appearance of dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and discoloration, including dark circles under the eyes.

Regular exfoliation with glycolic acid can also improve the overall texture of the skin, making it smoother and softer. The removal of dead skin cells can enhance the skin’s ability to absorb other skincare ingredients, making treatments for hydration or pigmentation more effective.

Additionally, glycolic acid has the property of inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme crucial in the production of melanin. Since excessive melanin production can result in hyperpigmentation, by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, glycolic acid disrupts its synthesis pathway, and thereby reduces the appearance of dark circles under the eyes. Combining its exfoliating action with the ability to inhibit melanin formation, glycolic acid provides a twofold approach to treating dark circles: it reveals brighter, healthier skin while actively preventing the formation of new pigmentation.

It’s important to note the mentioned properties of glycolic acid specifically address dark circles caused by hyperpigmentation (excess melanin). In contrast, vascular dark circles, which result from thinning skin that exposes underlying blood vessels, may actually worsen with exfoliation, as it can further thin the skin. As for structural dark circles, which are due to the natural shape or hollowness of the area, they are typically not something that cosmetic treatments with glycolic acid can effectively address.

A study conducted by AN & KIM (2020) evaluated the efficacy of eye patches containing 1% and 3% glycolic acid in reducing dark circles. Thirty women were divided into three groups (control, 1% GA, and 3% GA), and the patches were applied twice a week for four weeks. The study measured changes in melanin, erythema (redness), and dark circle color over time. The results showed that both concentrations of GA reduced pigmentation, with significant improvements in lightness (L*) values. The 3% GA group showed a greater reduction in pigmentation than the 1% GA group, though melanin and erythema levels decreased in both.

Another study by DAYAL & al. (2016) compared the effectiveness of glycolic acid, ferulic acid, and lactic acid chemical peel in treating periorbital hyperpigmentation. The study involved 90 patients, divided into three groups, each receiving one of the peels. Glycolic acid (20%) demonstrated the highest efficacy, with excellent physician and patient assessments. While ferulic acid was found to be a safer option with fewer side effects, glycolic acid remained the most effective in reducing hyperpigmentation around the eyes.

Glycolic acid and the eye area: are there any safety considerations to bear in mind?

Glycolic acid is generally considered safe when used in low concentrations, but higher concentrations can cause irritation, particularly around the delicate eye area. In the study mentioned, side effects such as erythema and itching were observed when doing a chemical peel with 20% glycolic acid, but did not require cessation of treatment. Patients with sensitive skin should consult with a dermatologist before using products containing high concentrations of glycolic acid near the eyes to avoid adverse reactions. 

• FUNASAKA Y. & al. The inhibitory effect of glycolic acid and lactic acid on melanin synthesis in melanoma cells. Experimental Dermatology (2003).

• SHARAD J. Glycolic acid peel therapy – A current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 6 (2013).

• SCHREML S. & al. Impact of a glycolic acid-containing pH 4 water-in-oil emulsion on skin pH. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology (2015).

• SAHU P. & al. Ferulic acid 12% peel: An innovative peel for constitutional type of periorbital melanosis—Comparing clinical efficacy and safety with 20% glycolic peel and 15% lactic peel. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2016).

• KIM J. H. & al. Evaluation of glycolic acid eye patch for improving periorbital melanosis. Journal of the Korean Society of Aesthetics (2020).