What are the different types of under-eye circles?

Did you know? In French, the word “cerne” is masculine, even if many French people think otherwise.

The vascular dark circles are characterized by a bluish-violet pigmentation of variable intensity that appears on the lower eyelid. This phenomenon is linked to a failure of the blood and lymph microcirculation in the delicate eye contour. Indeed, periocular skin is thin—less than 0.5 mm thick—and low in adipose tissue, making underlying blood vessels visible. When blood flow slows or is disrupted, blood pigments (bilirubin and hemoglobin derivatives such as biliverdin) accumulate under the eyes. These poorly drained pigments give vascular dark circles their blue-violet hue. These pigment deposits result from incomplete breakdown of red blood cells that leak from fragile microvessels, a process sometimes worsened by inherent capillary fragility. At the same time, insufficient lymphatic drainage prevents optimal pigment removal, causing accumulation in the subcutaneous tissues

This type of dark circles is common in people with fair or thin skin, as it makes blood vessels more visible. Genetics also affects blue circles: some individuals are born with more pronounced vascularization or with thinner skin around the eyes. Aging accentuates vascular circles because skin thins and vascular tone decreases. This worsens blood stasis and increases vessel visibility. Hormonal fluctuations, such as those linked to the menstrual cycle or pregnancy, can also promote periorbital venous congestion, which can cause a temporary intensification of the blue tint.

Beyond these intrinsic factors, several lifestyle factors contribute to worsening under-eye circles, such as sleep deprivation, which impairs venous return and promotes capillary dilation, smoking, which alters microcirculation and increases oxidative stress, alcohol consumption, which causes transient vasodilation, and repeated screen exposure, which promotes venous congestion.

Bluish under-eye circles can be reduced by addressing lifestyle factors (restorative sleep, reduced stimulant intake), using certain cosmetic actives (caffeine, Helichrysum italicum essential oil), and, if necessary, using aesthetic medicine techniques (laser, carboxytherapy, radiofrequency).

The pigmentary dark circles manifest as a brown to black discoloration around the eye contour, affecting the lower eyelid but extending to the upper eyelid and adjacent areas. This hue results from an excess melanin deposition, the natural pigment responsible for skin color. In the majority of cases, genetic factors drive this hyperpigmentation. It affects Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI, which have more active melanocytes. In these individuals, the cells that produce melanin generate excess pigment without external triggers. Local hyperactivity of melanin-synthesizing enzymes can intensify this process with tyrosinase. When overstimulated, tyrosinase oxidizes tyrosine to dopaquinone then to melanin, causing excess pigmentation

In addition to this genetic component, other factors may contribute to brown under-eye circles, such as repeated rubbing of the periorbital area during makeup application and removal, which may promote a local inflammatory response. Sun exposure, which drives melanin synthesis in the skin, can worsen hyperpigmentation around the eye contour, as this thin area allows UV rays to pass through and is overlooked during sunscreen application. Certain hormonal disturbances, such as those occurring during pregnancy or after contraceptive use, may induce periorbital melasma, intensifying pigmentation in this region. Finally, the skin’s natural aging process tends to accentuate pigment irregularities and brown under-eye circles.

Pigmented dark circles result from genetic factors in most cases. Management is challenging, but specific active ingredients and aesthetic medicine techniques can reduce their visibility.

Structural dark circles are primarily characterized by a pronounced shadow under the eyes, which gives the eye a tired, aged appearance. Unlike vascular or pigmented dark circles, this dark color results from an optical effect caused by volume loss or displacement beneath the eye. Over time, these hollow circles deepen. Facial fat compartments under the eyes diminish. This loss reduces skin support and reveals the hollow of the orbital bone. The skin thins and covers the bone contours less. This fat loss stems partly from the gradual resorption of suborbital fat pads that provide anatomical support. With age, volume shifts affect nearby areas such as the cheeks. This change accentuates the transition between the lower eyelid and the cheek, known as the tear trough. It creates a sharp break and reinforces the shadow.

Other factors can trigger hollow under-eye circles, including rapid or significant weight loss, which causes a loss of facial fat compartments and accentuates bony contours. Smoking plays a role: it promotes free radical production that degrades structural dermal proteins such as collagen and elastin. This dermal matrix alteration leads to reduced density and volume and deepens the under-eye shadow. Genetic factors also contribute: some individuals are born with a more pronounced orbital anatomy, a more prominent bone structure, or a naturally hollow lower eyelid. With structural under-eye circles, the shadow varies with lighting and is most apparent when light comes from above. This can help identify this specific type of dark circle.

The structural dark circles are the most difficult to treat. No topical active ingredient can correct this type of dark circle. Only aesthetic medicine can address them.

Identifying different types of dark circles can be challenging. Recognizing them is essential to select an appropriate solution. The first factor to consider is the color of dark circles. If your dark circles appear blue to purple, they are vascular. This type is simple to identify. If uncertain, apply a cold compress to the under-eye area for several minutes. If the circles diminish, they are vascular.

Distinguishing pigmented and hollow under-eye shadows is complex because they share a similar hue. Pigmented shadows lean toward yellow-brown. Hollow shadows appear darker and resemble a shadow. To differentiate them, you can use a lamp. Hollow shadows are more pronounced under top lighting and less visible under frontal lighting. Pigmented shadows do not change with lighting direction.

If you can’t identify your type of dark circles, you may have mixed circles representing a combination of different types.

• CESTARI T. F. & al. What causes dark circles under the eyes? Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2007).

• PARK S. R. & al. Classification by causes of dark circles and appropriate evaluation method of dark circles. Skin Research and Technology (2015).

• O'MAHONY M. & al. Identification of three key factors contributing to the aetiology of dark circles by clinical and instrumental assessments of the infraorbital region. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2019).

• LOWE N. & al. Periorbital discolouration diagnosis and treatment: evidence-based review. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2020).