Elastin: which active ingredients should it be paired with?

The association between elastin and collagen is one of the most natural there is, in that it mirrors the very architecture of the skin. These two structural proteins are intimately linked in the dermis: the collagen provides tensile strength and mechanical support to the skin, while the elastin ensures its elasticity and its ability to return to its original shape after deformation. Collagen and elastin form a three-dimensional network of interwoven fibers that helps maintain the skin’s structure. Cosmetics combining these two active ingredients thus aim to reproduce this biological synergy.

Studies in vitro have shown that using elastin and collagen can stimulate the activity of fibroblasts, the skin cells responsible for producing extracellular matrix proteins. Notably, work by JIMENEZ and his team on an elastin hydrolysate demonstrated a 25 to 30% increase in fibroblast proliferation. This cellular stimulation translated into more than a 250% increase in elastin fiber production and a 100% increase in collagen production. Clinical studies, such as those presented below, confirm that the collagen and elastin, when applied topically, improve skin suppleness and reduce wrinkles.

Since no incompatibility exists between collagen and elastin when incorporated into the same formulation, their combination therefore appears relevant for firming the skin and enhancing its barrier function.

The vitamin B12, or cobalamin, is a molecule recognized for its soothing and antioxidant properties. Used both in cosmetic formulations and in dermatological ointments designed for sensitive skin, it works by inhibiting the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and by reducing the production of nitric oxide, a vasodilator involved in the onset of redness. It is therefore particularly useful for relieving eczema or rosacea. Furthermore, vitamin B12 is also a good antioxidant: owing to the many double bonds in its structure, it stabilizes free radicals, thereby protecting DNA and cellular organelles from oxidative stress. This mechanism helps slow down skin aging and prevent pigmentary disorders. Studies in vitro also suggest that vitamin B12 may play a role in wound healing via stimulation of fibroblasts and might support angiogenesis.

However, to date, no scientific study has explored the synergy between vitamin B12 and elastin.

However, their combination appears logical and free of contraindications. While elastin supports the skin’s suppleness and resilience, vitamin B12 protects dermal fibers against oxidative stress and promotes cellular regeneration. Together, these two molecules could help to strengthen the structure and the barrier function of the skin, while soothing irritation and maintaining skin comfort.

The vitamin C is a major skin antioxidant, essential for collagen synthesis and for protecting elastic fibers against oxidative damage. Moreover, vitamin C influences elastin synthesis, as demonstrated by an experimental study in an animal model subjected to UVB-induced oxidative stress. In this study, the topical application of a formula combining vitamin C, polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), and niacinamide, delivered via a microneedling system, significantly increased the amount of elastin fibers in the irradiated skin. The researchers observed an increase in the expression of fibrillin 1/2 and fibulin 5, proteins involved in elastic fiber formation, as well as an overall increase in elastin fibers assessed by histological staining. These effects were most pronounced with the formula containing vitamin C, even surpassing the outcomes seen with hydroquinone or PDRN alone.

In addition to its antioxidant and photoprotective roles, vitamin C stimulates elastin production in the skin.

However, despite this close biological relationship between vitamin C and elastin, no scientific study has yet explored their topical combination. Yet such an association could be beneficial, combining the antioxidant benefits of vitamin C with the firming effects of elastin, for enhancing skin firmness and elasticity.

The retinoids, such as retinol, retinaldehyde, or retinoic acid, play a central role in cosmetics for their ability to stimulate cellular renewal and support extracellular matrix protein synthesis. These vitamin A derivatives are commonly used to improve skin texture and reduce wrinkles. Their action is based on regulating gene expression in fibroblasts, notably via the activation of RAR and RXR receptors, which control the transcription of genes involved in the production of collagen, elastin, and fibrillin.

A study conducted on cultured human fibroblasts and human skin explants demonstrated that retinol stimulates elastin production. After application of 0.04% retinol, the researchers observed a significant increase in the expression of genes encoding tropoelastin and fibrillin-1, as well as a strengthening of the elastin fiber network confirmed by histological staining. In the cultured fibroblasts, retinol exposure at concentrations of 10⁻⁵ and 10⁻⁶ M induced a dose-dependent increase in elastin protein levels.

Although no study has yet explored the topical combination of retinoids and elastin, there is no known incompatibility between these two active ingredients. Their combination could prove complementary in slowing skin aging.

In the skin, hyaluronic acid and elastin are closely associated within the dermal extracellular matrix. The hyaluronic acid, thanks to its exceptional ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, ensures dermal turgor and flexibility, while elastin fibers give it mechanical resilience. In cosmetics, the hyaluronic acid is most recognized for its hydrating power. It forms a humectant film on the skin’s surface that draws water from the environment and retains it in the stratum corneum. Regarding topical elastin, studies ex vivo have demonstrated its ability to retain moisture in the skin.

The association between elastin and hyaluronic acid may be beneficial for restoring skin hydration and suppleness. No clinical study has yet confirmed this synergy, but no contraindications have been reported to date, making this combination promising.

The ceramides are essential lipids naturally present in the stratum corneum, where they account for nearly 50% of epidermal lipids. They play a fundamental role in cellular cohesion and skin barrier function by forming, with fatty acids and cholesterol, a lamellar structure that limits insensible water loss and protects the skin from external stressors. With age, environmental exposures, or certain dermatoses such as eczema, the amount of ceramides decreases, leading to dryness and discomfort. When applied topically, ceramides contribute to restoring the skin barrier, strengthening the skin’s ability to retain moisture and reducing its sensitivity.

To date, no study has assessed the potential synergy between ceramides and elastin, but their combination could be promising for supporting both lipid cohesion and the suppleness of skin tissue.

Polyphenols are a broad class of plant-derived molecules recognized for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Found in various botanical extracts, such as green tea, grapes, cocoa, and pomegranate, they can neutralize free radicals thanks to their chemical structure rich in double bonds, thereby protecting membrane lipids, structural skin proteins like collagen and elastin, and cellular DNA. Many polyphenols are used in cosmetics, such as resveratrol, the coenzyme Q10 and glutathione.

Although few studies have explored the potential benefits of combining elastin with polyphenols, one notable example is the study by MOHAMED and his team, which investigated tannic acid, a polyphenol.

The objective was to assess the wound healing rate and the quality of tissue regenerationin rats under three conditions: elastin alone, elastin conjugated to tannic acid, or no treatment. The results showed that elastin, whether alone or combined with tannic acid, significantly accelerated wound closure compared to the control group. Additionally, the healing rate was significantly improved when elastin was paired with tannic acid, illustrating the relevance of this association.

Histological analysis also demonstrated a faster, more organized regeneration of the epidermis and dermis, with complete re-epithelialization and increased fibroblast proliferation. These effects can be attributed to the antioxidant and antibacterial properties of tannic acid, which strengthen elastin’s reparative action and foster a skin environment conducive to healing.

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• LIN C. B. & al. A novel anti-ageing mechanism for retinol: Induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fibre formation. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2011).

• MAEDA I. & al. Investigation of water-soluble elastin as a multifunctional cosmetic material: Moisturizing and whitening effects. Journal of Cosmetic Science (2017).

• HUSSAIN Z. & al. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules (2018).

• GÜNGÖR S. & al. Recent advances on topical application of ceramides to restore barrier function of skin. Cosmetics (2019).

• ZHENG X. & al. An artificially designed elastin-like recombinant polypeptide improves aging skin. American Journal of Translational Research (2022).

• BYUN K. & al. A mixture of topical forms of polydeoxyribonucleotide, vitamin C, and niacinamide attenuated skin pigmentation and increased skin elasticity by modulating nuclear factor erythroid 2-like 2. Molecules (2022).

• NERGIZ-UNAL R. & al. Collagen peptides affect collagen synthesis and the expression of collagen, elastin, and versican genes in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. Frontiers in Medicine (2024).

• MOHAMED S. A. & al. Development of bovine elastin/tannic acid bioactive conjugate: Physicochemical, morphological, and wound healing properties. Polymer Bulletin (2024).

• YI K.-H. & al. Manufacturing process of hyaluronic acid dermal fillers. Polymers (2024).

• JANALIKOVA M. & al. Collagen hydrolysates from animal by-products in topical cosmetic formulations. International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2025).