Exfoliation for sensitive skin: how to choose and apply it?

Sensitive skin often implies an increased reactivity to friction and certain compounds.

For those with sensitive and/or allergic skin, it is recommended to favor gentle, hydrating/nourishing treatments and avoid products containing fragrances and irritating surfactants such as sulfates. As a reminder, there are several types of exfoliation, all with a similar role: to remove dead skin cells and stimulate cellular renewal. These different types of exfoliation include chemical exfoliation, enzymatic exfoliation, and mechanical exfoliation (or grain exfoliation).

Mechanical exfoliants should be avoided for sensitive skin. One should turn to chemical or enzymatic exfoliants as these do not require overly abrasive rubbing.

It is recommended to choose a facial scrub specially designed for sensitive skin, gentle, to be emulsified with water or ideally, for an exfoliating treatment based onfruit acids which requires no rubbing.

Fruit acids such as blackberry, blackcurrant, or raspberry acids are enzymatic exfoliating agents. They remove dead cells on the skin's surface for an immediate glow. They reveal smoother skin and a refined skin texture.

Chemical peeling differs from enzymatic exfoliation in terms of the exfoliating agents used.In chemical peeling, the acids typically used are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, or poly hydroxy acids (PHAs) such as gluconolactone.

Enzymatic and chemical exfoliations offer several benefits for skin balance. A wide range of formats exist: peeling or exfoliating lotion, peeling or exfoliating mask, serum, or even powder that transforms into foam upon contact with water.Their benefits are as follows.

• Targeted Action: the enzymes included in the skincare product act solely on impurities and dead cells;

• A soft texture for the skin, ideal for irritated or sensitive skin;

• A rapid action, whose effectiveness operates in just a few minutes;

• The feeling of clean and light skin after the session: the surface of the epidermis is better oxygenated. The skin texture is tightened and as a result, skin aging slows down;

• Generally,the absence of tingling or pulling sensations that can be felt during a traditional mechanical exfoliation. Caution, very sensitive skin types should favor lactic acid over glycolic acid for chemical exfoliations.

How to properly use a chemical exfoliant?

1. Firstly, it is essential to remove makeup and cleanse the skin with gentle treatments recommended for sensitive skin. Each evening, apply ourmakeup removing oilwhich is fragrance-free, to rid your skin of the residues that have accumulated throughout the day. If you prefer a texture that transforms from balm - oil - milk, opt for thecleansing balmwithcamellia oil. This product removes makeup from the face and eyes and cleanses gently. The skin is left supple, soft, and comfortable.

2. Depending on the formulation of the chemical and/or enzymatic exfoliant, the method of use may vary (whether it needs to be rinsed off or not, whether it should be used in the evening or not). For rinse-off formulas, apply 3 to 4 drops of your exfoliant to the face and neck in circular motions, avoiding the eye area, and leave on for 5 minutes before rinsing thoroughly. As for chemical peels that do not require rinsing, these are applied by gently massaging the face in circular motions, avoiding the eye area. Certain active ingredients such as glycolic acid or lactic acid increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun. Therefore, the risk of sunburn is higher for up to a week after use. These should not be used in the morning, and appropriate sun protection should be applied the next day. Moreover, initial uses may cause slight redness as the skin adjusts to the molecule. These effects fade after several uses. Discover our gentle peeling serum containing 10% lactic acid.