Glycolic acid to combat enlarged pores?

Pores are tiny openings in the skin through which sebum synthesized by the sebaceous glands reaches the epidermal surface to hydrate and protect it from external aggressors. Their role is therefore essential, but sometimes they become more visible, giving the skin an uneven appearance. This dilation of pores can be favored by several factors: excessive sebum production, which stretches the pore wall; accumulation of dead cells on its surface, which prevents its natural contraction; or loss of skin firmness due to aging and sun exposure, which loosens the tissue around the pore. As a result, pores appear enlarged and more visible, sometimes leading to the appearance of blackheads.

An effective skincare regimen, using glycolic acid among other active ingredients, can help minimize the dilation of pores.

Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is known for its exfoliating properties and its ability to stimulate cellular renewal. In cases of enlarged pores, its action begins at the surface of the epidermis: the glycolic acid breaks the intercellular bonds between keratinocytes, facilitating the removal of accumulated dead cells. This exfoliating action reduces pore blockage, thereby limiting their enlargement and the formation of blackheads. Beyond exfoliation, glycolic acid would also act on the deeper structure of pores. Studies in vitro and in vivo have shown that glycolic acid can promote collagen production by fibroblasts, which helps reinforce the firmness and tone of the skin around the pores. This improvement in dermal structure could contribute to making the pores appear visually tighter and improving the skin’s overall appearance.

Several studies conducted in patients with acne have shown that glycolic acid was not only an ally against imperfections but could also reduce pore dilation. One of these studies evaluated the efficacy of a series of glycolic acid peels combined with at-home treatments containing 15% glycolic acid in 40 patients with moderate to severe acne. Participants received four peel sessions at 35% or 50%, depending on acne severity, spaced three weeks apart. The results showed a significant improvement in comedones, papules, and pustules, as well as a reduction in pore dilation.

Another study evaluated the efficacy of glycolic acid chemical peels in reducing pore visibility in 22 women. Participants underwent five sessions of 30% glycolic acid peels at two-week intervals. Digital facial analysis showed that 86% of participants experienced a significant decrease in the number of visible pores, and 72% had a reduction in the number of open pores (pores with a surface area between 0.3 and 0.6 mm²).

Glycolic acid chemical peels thus appear to reduce the visibility and size of dilated pores.

• CHAN H.-L. & al. The effect of glycolic acid on the treatment of acne in Asian skin. Dermatologic Surgery (1997).

• MAIBACH H. & al. Increased in vivo collagen synthesis and in vitro cell proliferative effect of glycolic acid. Dermatologic Surgery (1998).

• KUSUMOTO K. & al. A novel method to measure conspicuous facial pores using computer analysis of digital-camera-captured images: The effect of glycolic acid chemical peeling. Skin Research and Technology (2011).

• SHARAD J. Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2013).