Blackhead: What is it?

Blackheads are retentional lesions of the epidermis, also referred to as open comedones. Even though blackheads most commonly appear on combination to oily skin types, which naturally tend to have enlarged pores and secrete a significant amount of sebum, all skin types can be affected.

Blackheads are often found on the forehead, nose, and chin, or on the so-called "T-zone". The reason for this is as follows: these areas have a high concentration of sebaceous glands. An excess production of sebum by these glands can lead to the obstruction of the skin's pores.

Furthermore, this phenomenon can interfere with its natural desquamation, the process by which it sheds dead cells. The accumulation of these cells can also clog the pores, leading to the formation of comedones. A blackhead measures between 1 and 3 mm in diameter approximately. Its color is due to the oxidation of sebum when exposed to air.

Several factors can lead to the hyperseborrhea and the formation of these comedones: hormonal changes, diet, high exposure to pollution or sunlight...

How does a blackhead evolve?

Depending on the circumstances, a blackhead can develop in several different ways:

  • The first, and most desirable, is its exit, either naturally or with the aid of a comedone extractor, from the pore. This results in its rupture and the expulsion of a dark filament. It should be noted that it is preferable not to extract it oneself but to consult a dermatologist. Furthermore, although the blackhead may disappear on its own, this process is quite lengthy and can take several months to several years.

  • A blackhead can also become inflamed and turn into a red acne pimple. This transformation is due to the action of the bacteria Cutibacterium acnes, which is involved in the acne process. Its proliferation is favored by the sebum-rich environment, as this bacteria primarily feeds on the triglycerides present in the sebum. Furthermore, Cutibacterium acnes can secrete pro-inflammatory substances, which are responsible for the progression of the blackhead. Indeed, it transforms the sebum's triglycerides into free fatty acids that exacerbate the inflammation of the sebaceous glands.

    When inflammation is managed promptly, it is typically only superficial, resulting in the appearance of papules or pustules . However, in the case of deep inflammation, painful nodules can emerge, potentially developing into abscesses or cysts. Inflammation of the blackhead can also be due to its regular manipulation. Indeed, germs present on the fingers and nails can infect the comedone and cause its infection.

How to limit the appearance of blackheads?

It is possible to prevent the occurrence of blackheads by regularly cleansing your skin with treatments suitable for your skin type. For this purpose, you can use our purifying cleansing gel with zinc PCA and bamboo extract (INCI name: Phyllostachys Bambusoides Extract), which helps to purify the skin and rebalance sebum production to limit the formation of blemishes.

It is also important to always remove makeup every evening in order to eliminate all traces of pollution and dirt accumulated throughout the day. Finally, to prevent the appearance of blackheads, it is also recommended to perform one to two exfoliations per week in order to deeply unclog the pores and remove dead skin cells.

Sources:

  • LIU Y. & al. Complementary therapies for acne vulgaris. The Cochrane Database of Systemic Reviews (2015).

  • NOWIWCKA D. & al. Microbiome and probiotics in acne vulgaris - a narrative review. Life (2022).

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