How to care for your skin in the fall?

The facial cleansing is one of the essential steps in a skincare routine, regardless of the time of year. It enables the removal of impurities accumulated on the epidermal surface and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.

In the morning during autumn, the skin is generally not saturated with sebum and sweat as it can be in midsummer. Since night-time perspiration is lower, a gentle cleansing is sufficient to awaken the epidermis without causing irritation. The application of a thermal water mist, a hydrosol, or a lotion lightweight helps remove fine dust particles and primes the skin to receive its treatments. In most cases, using a foaming cleanser on autumn mornings is unnecessary and risks disrupting an hydrolipidic film already compromised by the cold and wind that reassert themselves during this season.

In the evening, however, cleansing needs to be more thorough. Makeup residues—a habit we often resume as the back-to-school period approaches—environmental pollutants and any sunscreen formulations require a double cleansing. This method, inherited from Asian routines, first uses an oil-based phase to dissolve lipophilic substances (sebum, sunscreen filters, makeup) and then a water-based cleanser to remove hydrophilic impurities. Double cleansing ensures perfectly clean skin, capable of better absorbing subsequent treatments. This step is particularly important in autumn, when the skin has needs to regenerate after summer to preserve its radiance.

Please note : Choose your cleanser according to your skin type. For example, if you have oily skin, opt for a cleansing gel instead. If your skin is prone to dryness, a cleansing milk or a dermatological cleansing bar will suit you better.

At the end of summer, the skin has often been subjected to excess UV radiation, responsible for the production of free radicals that accelerate skin aging and dull the complexion. Fall is therefore the ideal season to help it regenerate and regain its radiance. While hydration remains fundamental, it is also the time to provide targeted support with antioxidants—molecules capable of neutralizing free radicals in skin tissues. Antioxidants are naturally occurring compounds in the skin that act as a protective shield. However, when free radical production is excessive, the skin’s antioxidant reserves may not suffice, leading to oxidative stress.

It is then beneficial to support the skin by supplying it with topical antioxidants. The vitamin C, for example, is one of the most commonly used antioxidants in cosmetics: it stimulates collagen production and helps even out skin tone by limiting melanin oxidation. The resveratrol, extracted from grapevine, or the vitamin E, fat-soluble, protect the cell membrane from external aggressors. When incorporated into a fall routine, these active ingredients help the skin regain its vitality while preparing it for winter.

Most often, antioxidants are used in the morning as a serum before applying moisturizer. They enhance the skin’s defense against pollution and daily environmental stressors, which are particularly prevalent in urban environments. In the evening, you can alternate with other regenerating active ingredients, such as retinol, which, in addition to its antioxidant effects, stimulates cellular renewal.

With the arrival of autumn, the skin undergoes a physiological change related to variations in temperature and humidity. After the summer, one observes a decrease in stratum corneum hydration as well as a progressive decline in sebum production. However, this natural lipid film plays an essential role in protecting the skin barrier. Its reduction makes the skin more vulnerable and more prone to tightness. A study conducted with several hundred participants across different seasons highlighted this phenomenon, as shown in the table below.

Hydration is an essential practice during the fall season to help the skin retain its comfort and suppleness.

Thus, in a fall skincare routine, adding a hydrating serum can make all the difference. Formulated with active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, known for its ability to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water, the glycerin or even the polyglutamic acid, this product helps maintain optimal water levels in skin cells. However, the true cornerstone of hydration in fall remains the moisturizing cream. Unlike in summer, when lighter textures suffice, the skin now benefits from richer formulations that deeply nourish and restore the hydrolipidic film. Creams containing ceramides, essential fatty acids, or plant-based butters offer a dual benefit: they hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier to limit transepidermal water loss.

It is important to choose your moisturizing cream according to your skin type: a lightweight formula for combination to oily skin, and a richer, more emollient texture for dry skin.

In autumn, days grow shorter and light intensity decreases, which can create the impression that sun protection is no longer necessary. However, UV rays, although less intense than in summer, remain present and continue to affect the skin. UVA rays, in particular, penetrate deeply into the dermis and promote premature aging. Moreover, certain conditions, such as hyperpigmentation, acne, or rosacea, can be exacerbated by light. Finally, UV protection remains essential for reducing the risk of skin cancers, especially melanoma, for which chronic UV exposure is the primary cause.

In autumn, we therefore recommend that you continue to apply a sunscreen.

A day cream with SPF 30 is generally sufficient in the fall for daily use, especially if you spend little time outdoors. To ensure proper protection, apply the equivalent of three fingertip units of sunscreen to your face and neck, which corresponds to four passes of sunscreen stick if you choose that format.

With the arrival of autumn, the skin undergoes a gradual transformation. Temperature fluctuations and drier air lead to a slowdown in cell renewal, promoting the buildup of dead cells on the surface of the epidermis. The stratum corneum then becomes thicker, and the skin may appear dull and rough, losing the radiance it had gained during summer. A study conducted with 14 volunteers also showed that skin tended to be thicker and rougher in winter than in summer. Researchers took measurements on participants’ forearms in January and June and observed an increase in epidermal thickness and roughness during the winter months, as illustrated in the figure below.

Exfoliating your skin regularly helps counteract this phenomenon and prepares it to withstand the rigors of winter.

Mechanical exfoliation, performed with scrubs containing fine particles, can be beneficial but should preferably be carried out with products containing micro-grains to avoid compromising the skin barrier, which is already challenged by cold and wind. Once or twice a week is sufficient, and sensitive skin may limit it to once to avoid any irritation. Chemical exfoliations based on fruit acids, such as AHAs, BHAs, or PHAs, are particularly suitable this season. They gently remove dead cells while stimulating cell renewal. These active ingredients also enhance the penetration of subsequent skincare products, optimizing their effectiveness. Exfoliation is best integrated into the evening routine, before serums and moisturizer, allowing the skin to regenerate overnight.

At the onset of autumn, many regret seeing their summer tan gradually fade. The natural renewal of the epidermis, combined with the slowdown in melanin production once sun exposure ends, leads to the loss of the golden glow acquired during summer. Yet there are several solutions to prolong this tan and maintain a healthy complexion without UV exposure. Some plant oils, such as the buriti oil, are particularly interesting because of their high concentration of carotenoids, notably beta-carotene. These pigments impart a slight golden hue to the skin while acting as antioxidants. Unlike self-tanners, they do not cause a chemical coloration of the skin but simply enhance its radiance. They are generally used in combination with a moisturizing cream, as their texture alone can be too rich for certain skin types.

Another convenient and customizable option: tanning drops. They can be added directly to your day cream and allow you to adjust the tan intensity based on the number of drops used. Their effect is gradual and reversible, which enables a tailored result. Finally, self-tanners allow you to achieve a natural-looking tan without sun exposure. Their key ingredient, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), reacts with amino acids in the stratum corneum to produce a temporary coloration lasting about a week, without affecting melanin. However, exercise caution when using a self-tanner : apply it zone by zone with long strokes to avoid streaks or demarcation lines.

• DIFFEY B. Factors that influence the quality and quantity of terrestrial solar UV radiation. Sun Protection, a risk management approach (2017).

• VELEBNY V. & al. Seasonal variations in the skin parameters of Caucasian women from Central Europe. Skin Research & Technology (2020).

• MAITI R. & al. Effect of seasonal change on the biomechanical and physical properties of the human skin. Journal of the Mechanical Behavior of Biomedical Materials (2022).