In which skincare products can we find tranexamic acid?

Tranexamic acid is asynthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine. To recall, amino acids are the building blocks of proteins. When ingested, it is a medication used to treat excessive blood loss caused by major trauma, surgery, postpartum bleeding, and heavy menstruation due to its coagulating properties.

In skincare, tranexamic acid is a recent active ingredient. Unlike other acids used in cosmetics (glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, etc...), tranexamic acid does not exfoliate the skin but disrupts the excessive production of melanin, which causes hyper-pigmentation, and also acts as an anti-inflammatory.

Tranexamic acid inhibits UV-induced melanin synthesis by blocking the interaction between keratinocytes (skin cells) and melanocytes (melanin-producing cells). It specifically targets melasmas of the epidermal type (or pregnancy mask), solar spots , and post-acne marks (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation).Furthermore, a 2015 study found that a topical treatment with 3% tranexamic acid for 2 weeks improves the visible signs of rosacea. Researchers have established a link between this reduction in symptoms and the improvement of the skin barrier.

Firstly, to be effective on pigmented spots, the concentration of tranexamic acid is generally between 2 and 5% in a skincare product. Next, this recent active ingredient is still quite rare in cosmetic formulas. The types of skincare products in which this compound can be incorporated are acidic toning lotions, anti-spot serums , or even eye contour creams to combat pigmented dark circles.

Note : Tranexamic acid is generally safe for all skin types and well tolerated. However, it is not necessary to add it to one's beauty routine if their skin does not have pigmented spots.

The hyperpigmentation and firmness serum contains 5% of tranexamic acid. This treatment reduces and prevents the appearance of pigmentation spots, particularly melasma, and promotes skin firming. The complexion is even, the skin is smoother and firmer. It also contains acetyl tetrapeptide-2, a peptide composed of four amino acids that stimulate the synthesis of key molecules involved in skin support and firmness: elastin, collagen, and fibrillin.

• NAEINI F. F. & al. Topical tranexamic acid as a promising treatment for melasma. Journal of Research in Medical Sciences (2014).

• ZHONG S. & others. Topical tranexamic acid enhances the permeability barrier in rosacea.Dermatologica Sinica (2015).

• JANNEY M. S. & al. A randomized controlled study comparing the effectiveness of topical 5% tranexamic acid solution versus 3% hydroquinone cream in melasma. Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery (2019).

• WANG J. V. & al. Tranexamic acid for melasma: Evaluating the various formulations.Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2019).