Dehydrated skin: which products should you use in your skincare routine?

A dehydrated skin is due to a failure of the hydrolipid barrier that no longer retains water. This common, temporary, and reversible condition appears as a loss of radiance and comfort. Tightness occurs after cleansing or showering. Any skin type can develop dehydration, including oily skin. Dehydration relates to environmental factors (cold, wind, pollution, and sun), stress, fatigue, or lifestyle factors (smoking, alcohol, harsh skin care products, and certain medications). Intrinsic skin aging also promotes dehydration by causing a decline in hyaluronic acid that occurs over the years.

If your skin is dehydrated, choose formulas rich in humectant ingredients (glycerin, polyglutamic acid, aloe vera...) that retain water in the skin’s layers.

Although cleansing is essential, it can be problematic for dehydrated skin because its hydrolipidic film is compromised, increasing transepidermal water loss. Using an aggressive cleanser or one containing sulfate surfactants, known for their stripping action, can weaken the hydrolipidic film of the skin and worsen sensations of tightness.

For dehydrated skin, use a gentle, soap-free cleanser. This formula, called syndet, is formulated at physiological pH—around 5.5—and can cleanse skin without disrupting its balance. Cleansers enriched with relipidating agents like plant oils or containing hydrating actives such as hyaluronic acid or vitamin B12, are recommended. For very uncomfortable skin, a cleansing milk or a cleansing oil can replace the usual cleansing gel. The water used for rinsing matters: use lukewarm water, never hot, and avoid long showers. This helps preserve the weakened hydrolipidic film. To dry your face, pat with a clean towel—do not rub—to avoid further disruption of the skin barrier.

A cleansing product is not always required in the morning. A hydrosol is sufficient for normal to dry skin.

When skin is dehydrated, sealing water at the surface is not sufficient: hydration must first be delivered to deeper layers. This is the purpose of aqueous hydrating treatments, such as toning lotions and serums, which restore hydration levels in the upper epidermis through active ingredients with high hygroscopic capacity.

Toning lotions applied after cleansing rebalance skin pH and prepare the skin for subsequent treatments. Depending on their composition, they can hydrate. Those containing humectants allow increase the water content of the stratum corneum. Serums follow. These treatments contain higher concentrations of actives. Those with hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1,000 times their weight in water. Those with polyglutamic acid can hold up to 5,000 times their weight in water. They suit dehydrated skin.

Apply tonic lotions and hydrating serums morning and evening after cleansing the skin.

Once the skin receives hydration from lotions and serums, seal it with an emollient such as a moisturizing cream or balm. This step retains water in the epidermis by forming a film on its surface, and also to strengthen the lipid organization of the stratum corneum, and thus the skin barrier function, weakened in dehydrated skin.

The choice of moisturizing cream depends on skin type: light emulsions suit combination to oily skin, while balms and rich creams suit dry to very dry skin or in winter. Some formulas also combine lipids with humectants, helping retain water in the epidermis and slow its evaporation.

Essential morning and night, the cream acts as a protective barrier that locks water into the skin and enhances the effectiveness of prior treatments.

Sometimes overlooked, sun rays contribute to skin dehydration. UV rays generate free radicals in epidermal cells and damage cellular structures, especially the lipids that ensure the cohesion of the skin barrier. Even when sunlight is weak, on cloudy days, or in winter, repeated UV exposure disrupts lipid organization in the stratum corneum. This damage weakens barrier function and increases skin dehydration.

To avoid this cycle, we recommend applying a sunscreen daily sunscreen, applied as the final step in your morning routine before applying any other products. This step preserves the skin’s moisture balance and protects against photoaging, or the acceleration of skin aging by UV exposure. Various sunscreen formulations—cream, stick, lightweight fluid, gel—allow each skin type to find a suitable option.

If you have prolonged sun exposure, remember to reapply your sun protection every two hours.

When skin lacks water, discomfort can appear at any time: tightness in mid-afternoon, tingling after exposure to cold. At those times, a portable hydrating step can make a difference. That’s where hydrating mists and hydrating sticks come in. These products easy to apply and carry are rich in humectants and restore hydration while locking in water. Hydrating sticks also contain ceramides and butters that form a protective film on the skin surface, limiting water loss for several hours.

Alongside a well-designed skincare routine, portable products like mists and moisturizing sticks help dehydrated skin remain comfortable throughout the day.

• BONTÉ F. & al. Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2007).

• GRANT-KELS J. M. & al. Nutrition and Water. Clinics in Dermatology (2021).

• EDA N. & al. Changes in the skin characteristics associated with dehydration and rehydration. European Journal of Sport Science (2023).