Dilated pores: how can their appearance be minimized?

The dilation of pores is a multifactorial phenomenon resulting from tightly interconnected biological and environmental mechanisms. Sebum plays a central role: excessive production, combined with the buildup of keratinocytes in the follicular canal, exerts pressure that gradually widens the pore opening. This process is amplified by hormonal influences, notably androgens, which stimulate both sebaceous gland activity and hair follicle growth. Hair thickness is also a critical factor, as a large follicle, paired with a dermal papilla rich in cells and extracellular matrix, tends to enlarge the pore structure on the skin’s surface.

With age, another mechanism comes into play: the loss of skin elasticity and inflammaging, a chronic low-grade inflammation that weakens the dermo-epidermal junction and degrades the fibers of collagen. This development promotes tissue sagging around pores, making them appear more pronounced. Additional environmental assaults, particularly sun exposure, compromise the skin barrier, undermine the quality of support fibers, and trigger the production of free radicals. Finally, an unsuitable skincare regimen can disrupt the skin’s balance, encourage pore blockage, and further accentuate their visibility.

Enlarged or dilated pores are not the result of a single cause, but rather of a combination of genetic, hormonal, and external factors that interact with one another.

An appropriate skincare routine is essential for minimizing pore dilation and improving their appearance. The goal is to work on multiple levels: regulating sebum production, maintaining optimal skin hydration, promoting cellular renewal, and protecting the skin from external aggressors.

Cleansing is the essential first step to combat enlarged pores. Each evening, it is recommended to use a cleanser that is mild, non-detergent, specifically formulated for combination-to-oily skin and/or skin prone to enlarged pores. Some actives such as zinc PCA are particularly interesting: they have a mattifying effect and limit the bacterial proliferation that often accompanies hyperseborrhea. Furthermore, we recommend avoiding products that are too detergent, containing harsh surfactants or high concentrations of alcohol, a common mistake when one has enlarged pores. Indeed, while this type of cleanser immediately removes excess sebum, it can trigger reactive hyperseborrhea. This phenomenon corresponds to an overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands in response to irritation, as the skin attempts to compensate for the dryness induced by cleansing that is too stripping.

After your evening cleanse or in place of a morning cleanser, applying a toning lotion can help rebalance the skin. Hydrosols, such as that of peppermint, feature refreshing and mildly astringent properties, which can help gently tighten enlarged pores.

Whether your pores are dilated or not, it is essential to properly hydrate your skin. Indeed, dehydrated skin tends to produce more sebum to compensate for its weakened barrier. Treatments rich in humectants, such as hyaluronic acid, help maintain optimal epidermal hydration. Thus, morning and evening, apply a moisturizer suited to your skin type. Additionally, some creams formulated for combination to oily skin contain astringent agents, such as bamboo extract, providing a dual action: hydrating and mattifying.

Once or twice a week, give your skin an exfoliation treatment using alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as mandelic acid or tartaric acid, which are effective allies for enlarged pores. These molecules accelerate cellular turnover, prevent keratin buildup in hair follicles, and improve the evenness of skin texture. To complement this, a weekly purifying mask, based on clay or charcoal, can help absorb excess sebum and unclog pores.

Finally, the daily sun protection remains essential: UV rays degrade collagen and elastin fibers, which accentuates the loss of dermal support and makes pores more visible.

Certain professional treatments can be performed to reduce the appearance of enlarged pores.

• The HydraFacial.

  The HydraFacial is a noninvasive, multi-step technique to improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. The protocol relies on a gentle suction system that removes impurities and excess sebum accumulated in the follicles, while exfoliating dead epidermal cells. This dual action unclogs the pores, reducing their diameter. Various serums are then applied to the skin, most often containing antioxidants, humectants, and peptides, followed by a cream to seal in hydration. The HydraFacial is considered suitable for all skin types, including the most sensitive, but is not suitable for pregnant women or for individuals undergoing medication that weakens the skin barrier (isotretinoin, anticoagulants...).

• Chemical peeling.

  In a clinical setting, chemical peels are performed at higher concentrations than at-home products, allowing for a deeper and more targeted action on enlarged pores. These peels typically use acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or trichloroacetic acid (TCA). The practitioner applies the product over the entire face or on specific areas where it causes a controlled exfoliation of the epidermis, promoting cell renewal and collagen stimulation. This process helps reduce the appearance of pores by improving skin elasticity and firmness. The peel’s depth and acid selection are calibrated to minimize irritation risks while maximizing aesthetic benefits. Visible results become apparent after a few sessions, with a more even skin texture and a gradual reduction in pore dilation.

  The benefit of peels with glycolic acid for reducing pore size was demonstrated in a study involving 40 acne patients. They underwent four peeling sessions spaced three weeks apart using 50% glycolic acid. Upon completion of these sessions, an overall improvement in acne was noted, along with a reduction in pore size for 67.5% of the participants. Despite their benefits, it is important to note that professional chemical peels are not suitable for pregnant women or individuals with sensitive skin or active skin conditions.

• The laser.

  Lasers are another option for improving skin texture and reducing the appearance of enlarged pores. In clinical settings, fractional or ablative lasers, such as the fractional CO₂ laser or the Er:YAG laser, are commonly employed. These produce a localized temperature rise in the epidermis and dermis, stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis. This stimulation reinforces the walls of hair follicles and reduces pore dilation. After several treatments spaced a few weeks apart, the skin appears visibly smoother, the overall texture more uniform, and the pores noticeably tightened.

  A clinical study at Shanghai Ninth People’s Hospital investigated the effectiveness of fractional laser treatment to reduce enlarged pores. Seventeen participants with seborrhea and enlarged pores were recruited. The protocol involved randomly treating one half of each subject’s face with a fractional laser, with the other half serving as a control. Each session consisted of two passes using microbeams of 38–40 mJ and 20–24 mJ energy, respectively, for a total of four sessions spaced two weeks apart. The quantitative evaluation of pore count was carried out before treatment and two months after the final session using the VISIA-CR system, which automatically detects pores based on diameter and circularity. Results showed a significant improvement on the treated side, confirming the efficacy of fractional laser therapy for tightening enlarged pores and improving skin texture.

• Radiofrequency.

  Finally, radiofrequency is another popular treatment for enlarged pores. This noninvasive technique uses electromagnetic waves to heat the deeper layers of the skin, thus stimulating collagen and elastin production. This stimulation of the connective tissue strengthens the firmness of the epidermis and dermis, allowing enlarged pores to appear visibly smaller. In practice, an applicator delivers energy in a targeted manner to the face, sometimes combined with a cooling system to protect the epidermis and improve comfort during the session. The results are gradual and generally require multiple sessions, spaced a few weeks apart, to achieve smoother skin texture and reduced pore visibility.

  A recent clinical study examined the efficacy of non-ablative monopolar radiofrequency (NMRF) for pore tightening. Seventeen participants with enlarged pores underwent two NMRF sessions spaced four weeks apart. Researchers measured pore volume and size using 3D imaging systems and dermoscopic analyses, complemented by a blinded clinical evaluation by two dermatologists based on standardized photographs. The treatment was well tolerated, with no significant adverse events, and produced marked improvements, indicating that NMRF is a safe and effective option for reducing pore enlargement.

Another study evaluated the efficacy of a monopolar radiofrequency device on 12 patients. Each participant received five treatment sessions spaced two weeks apart. The results demonstrated a significant reduction in sebum production, from a baseline mean of 39.17 μm/cm² to 8.42 μm/cm² after treatment. Moreover, one month after the last session, participants’ self-assessments indicated improvement in pore diameter in 83% of cases (33% rated excellent, 50% rated moderate), along with perceived enhancements in skin texture and firmness. Although these findings are based on self-evaluations rather than objective measurements, they support the notion that radiofrequency may be a promising option for managing enlarged pores.

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