I have PE(+) skin, what does that mean?

Cutaneous aging: PRONOUNCED

Oxidation factors: EXPOSED

Sebum production: INCREASED (+)

The first letter "P" indicates that the cutaneous aging is well established. In mature skin, after the age of fifty, expression lines that appeared earlier (crow’s feet at the corners of the eyes, glabellar lines…) deepen progressively due to an overall loss of firmness. Cellular degeneration that began in the early thirties continues, accompanied by a reduction in both the number and size of fat cells in the fatty tissue of the hypodermis, the deepest layer of the skin. This decrease leads to a loss of facial volume and hollowing of the cheeks.

Moreover, in women, at the time of menopause, deficiencies in estrogen and in progesterone accelerate the skin's chronological aging. Indeed, estrogens stimulate keratinocyte migration as well as the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, of collagen and of elastin by fibroblasts, processes that allow the skin to remain supple, firm, and hydrated. However, the sudden drop in female hormone secretion observed at menopause contributes to altering barrier function and deepening existing wrinkles.

A type E skin has been regularly exposed to sources of oxidation, such as sunlight, pollution, cigarette smoke, or resulting from certain lifestyle factors (chronic stress, reduced sleep, alcohol consumption, insufficient photoprotection practices). These repeated exposures promote the formation of reactive oxygen species, which are naturally produced by cells but, in excess, can disrupt the skin’s defense mechanisms. When the skin can no longer neutralize these unstable molecules, the oxidative balance shifts: cell membranes deteriorate, structural proteins begin to lose their integrity, and melanin production becomes irregular.

Persistent oxidative stress progressively weakens all layers of the skin. In the epidermis, it disrupts cell cohesion and alters melanocyte activity, contributing to an uneven complexion. In the dermis, it directly impacts fibroblasts by reducing their capacity to synthesize collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. These processes accelerate the onset of deep wrinkles and visible skin laxity, characteristics of the PE(+) profile.

The “+” sign indicates that the skin produces more sebum than average. This excess production gives the skin a somewhat shiny appearance, particularly in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), and can promote pore blockage, leading to imperfections. However, the elevated lipid content in PE(+) skin also offers a benefit: it supports the natural protection of the skin barrier, limits dehydration, and enhances resistance to environmental stressors.

However, the combination of high sebum secretion and frequent exposure to oxidative factors can amplify the risk of inflammatory comedones. Indeed, the free radicals can oxidize the lipids present in sebum. This phenomenon is particularly problematic for squalene, which then transforms into squalene peroxide, a comedogenic compound. This makes sebum more viscous and increases the risk of pore blockage. This corresponds to dysseborrhea, meaning poor-quality sebum. Like hyperseborrhea, which refers to excessive sebum production, this imbalance is an aggravating factor in skin imperfections.

A PE(+) skin requires support on multiple levels: strengthening its antioxidant defenses, regulating its excessive sebum production, and addressing its signs of aging.

In the morning, the primary goal is to protect the skin from daily aggressors that accelerate skin aging. After a gentle cleanse to remove excess sebum produced overnight without compromising the skin barrier, the application of an antioxidant serum rich in stabilized vitamin C, niacinamide or polyphenols helps neutralize the free radicals generated throughout the day. A lightweight, non-comedogenic yet sufficiently hydrating cream then maintains skin comfort and reduces shine when it contains sebum-regulating actives. The routine must end with broad-spectrum sun protection, essential for preventing the exacerbation of aging signs on skin already marked and exposed.

Note : Contrary to certain misconceptions, it is never too late to start caring for your skin!

In the evening, beginning with a double cleansing may be beneficial. As a reminder, this method combines an oil-based makeup remover to dissolve sebum and UV filters, and an aqueous cleanser in gel or milk form, for example, to complete the removal of all impurities. Firming actives, such as peptides or retinol, can then be used to help reduce wrinkles and other signs of aging. A lightweight night cream then helps to strengthen the skin barrier. Like in the morning, make sure to avoid finishes that are too occlusive, which could encourage shine and blemishes.