Oily Skin (+): Mistakes to Avoid.

Makeup removal and cleansing are essential aspects of any skincare routine. They help to eliminate makeup, tiny dust particles, environmental pollutants, sebum, sweat, unwanted bacteria, dead cells, or any other impurities that the often enlarged pores of oily skin may have accumulated. Without this, imperfections can easily form.

What is the right approach to take?

Thoroughly remove your makeup and cleanse your skin morning and evening gently, without irritating it. If you wear makeup daily or apply water-resistant sunscreen, opt for double cleansing at the end of each day. Otherwise, a simple cleanse may suffice using a water-based cleanser, even though double cleansing is a plus, especially for those living in a polluted environment or those with acne-prone skin. Lastly, favor a non-comedogenic hydrating liquid cleanser with sebum-regulating active ingredients in the formula.

Note : Non-comedogenic does not equate to being oil-free.

Which products should be recommended?

As an oil cleanser, we recommend our 7-ingredient makeup removing oil. Minimalist in design, it effectively dissolves makeup, pollution particles, and excess sebum without leaving the skin oily or risking the formation of pimples or blackheads. As a water-based cleanser, we suggest our purifying foaming gel , which gently cleanses and purifies the skin without drying it out. Its formula, based on mild surfactants (coco-glucoside, coco-betaine), respects the skin's balance. The zinc PCA and aquatic bamboo extract (INCI name: Phyllostachys Bambusoides Extract) help stabilize skin function and regulate sebum secretion. In addition to sebum-regulating and absorbing ingredients, it also contains eucalyptus globulus essential oil (INCI name: Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil) with antibacterial properties. The addition of hydrophilic film-forming agents in the formula (inulin) helps reduce the interaction between surfactants and lipids in the stratum corneum by leaving a film on the surface, and also restores lost moisture during washing.

One of the first instincts when dealing with oily skin is to try at all costs to rid the skin of excess sebum by over-cleansing. Some perceive oily skin as a lack of hygiene. However, while it is necessary to cleanse the skin daily, it is important to avoid overdoing it. Indeed, too frequent or harsh cleansing only further disrupts the skin's balance by promoting the deterioration of the skin barrier, increasing transepidermal water loss, drying out the skin, irritating the epidermis, and causing erythema. Weakened, the epidermis then reacts by producing more sebum, thus causing the opposite effect. It's important to remember that sebum is necessary to keep the skin hydrated and protected as it contributes to the composition of the hydrolipidic film.

What is the right approach to take?

Cleansing should be limited to a maximum of twice a day, ideally in the morning and evening. Furthermore, avoid the daily use of abrasive methods: cleansing brushes, grainy scrubs, masks, peelings, exfoliating gloves, konjac sponges, etc.

One of the most common misconceptions is the belief that an oily skin does not need to be hydrated simply because it appears shiny and shows no signs of dryness. However, all skin types need to be hydrated to compensate for the water we lose daily through sweating or evaporation (skin perspiration), in addition to limiting this transepidermal water loss. The peculiarity of oily skin is to "recharge" the skin with water, while helping to regulate the sebum level. If oily skin is not hydrated, it will lead to it compensating by producing more sebum to create a protective barrier to retain water.

What is the right approach to take?

Apply a moisturizing cream twice a day, morning and evening, after a gentle cleanse. A moisturizing treatment with a fluid, light, airy, watery texture like a gel-cream or a micro-emulsion should be favored.

Which products should be recommended?

Our purifying face cream is suitable for this skin type. In addition to ensuring sebum control thanks to the zinc PCA and the bamboo extract it contains to absorb excess sebum and rebalance the hydrolipidic film, it provides the right level of skin hydration due to its content in glycerin and pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid (PCA), restoring radiance and suppleness to the facial skin. These compounds act as a humectant and moisturizing agent. Its light and fluid texture quickly penetrates the epidermis without making the skin greasier and without a sticky effect.

Dried out blemishes, reduced shine, less visible pores... even if your skin appears to have visibly improved after sun exposure, an excess of UV rays can cause long-term imbalances. To defend against UV rays, the skin thickens but this also means that the sebum produced by the sebaceous glands can no longer flow properly. The consequences? the pores become clogged and one can expect an increase in sebum production once the effects of the sun have faded, thus maintaining a risk of bacterial contamination and the appearance of new blemishes as soon as the skin thins out once the tan has dissipated.

What is the right approach to take?

Minimize your exposure time. Moreover, protect yourself as soon as you are exposed to the sun with a sunscreen SPF 30 or 50 that is suitable, either with a water-based and light texture or an oil-free gel. Avoid thick sunscreens or oils that could exacerbate the harm.

Which products should be recommended?

Fluid and light, our SPF50 face sunscreen ensures to provide high sun protection to the skin. This photoprotective care actually offers a dual action at the same time. Beyond the broad-spectrum anti-UVA/UVB protection thanks to the combination of mineral filters (titanium dioxide) and organic filters (disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine), it hydrates the epidermis with the presence ofaloe vera (INCI name: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder) andhyaluronic acid (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid) protecting the skin from dryness. Moreover, it does not leave an oily skin feeling, white traces, and is not sticky.

When one has oily skin, one spends their time trying to mattify their complexion and hide shine. Cream, serum, powder, foundation primer, makeup setting spray, foundation... there are misconceptions circulating that excessively using mattifying skincare products would better control sebum production. On the contrary, applying them daily and in layers risks unbalancing the skin by drying it out, and only achieves the opposite effect and perpetuates the problem, resulting in even oilier skin. The skin will overproduce sebum to regain a semblance of balance. Indeed, the more you dry out the epidermis, the more it will produce sebum to protect itself, and the more you will mattify it... a true vicious cycle.

What is the right approach to take?

It is possible to mattify your skin without going to extremes and completely blocking sebum secretion. A mattifying treatment is sufficient. For instance, if you choose a mattifying foundation, you don't need to pair it with a absorbent powder. Similarly, if you decide to opt for a light veil of powder for a matte finish, there's no need to set everything with a makeup fixing mist or apply a mattifying face cream beforehand.

It is commonly believed that the more a facial cleanser strips the skin, the more effective it is. Indeed, immediately after use, the skin no longer appears shiny. However, products that excessively dry out the skin can create a rebound effect, causing the skin to produce more sebum. Many cleansers are based on so-called anionic surfactants (e.g., sulfated castor oil, sodium coco-sulfate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate...), like most soaps, and are frequently used to cleanse oily skin.

Indeed, these surfactants bind to the lipids in the stratum corneum, leading to a weakening of the skin barrier and thereby reducing its ability to retain water. They also increase the pH of the skin's surface, while the acidic mantle of the epidermis is a bacteriostatic environment that inhibits the growth of undesirable bacteria, in addition to having a drying and irritating effect on the skin.

Similarly, overly nourishing treatments or comedogenic oils, which have a greasy feel such as thecoconut oil or wheat germ oil should be avoided for oily skin. They will clog the pores, cause more blemishes to appear, and make the skin shinier.

What is the right approach to take?

It is crucial to use skincare products that are suitable for your skin type to avoid any skin discomfort. Opt for light creams and/or light plant-based oils with a dry touch such as jojoba oil or hazelnut oil. Regarding the cleansing process, choose cleansers based on emollients and/or non-ionic surfactants like coco-glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside... They are generally gentler and interact as little as possible with the structure of the stratum corneum, thus causing minimal disruption to the skin barrier. Although they hardly foam, they still have good detergent activity. The cleansers used should also be soap-free, have a physiological pH, and be free of alcohols.