The effectiveness of zinc against pimples.

Acne is an inflammatory disease caused by an overproduction of sebum, the colonization of a bacterium (P. acnes) and hyperkeratinization. It typically affects teenagers going through puberty but does not spare adults either.

Several factors can also promote the onset of acne: lack of sleep, hormonal changes, stress, inadequate hydration, poor diet, tobacco and alcohol consumption, etc.

Several types of pimples can then begin to appear.

• The closed comedones (or whiteheads).

  The closed comedones or microcysts are the most frequent manifestations of retentional acne. They result from a change in the quality of sebum (dysseborrhea), as well as an excessive production of sebum by the sebaceous glands (hyperseborrhea). Thus, the sebum clogs the pores, forming a micro-lesion with a white appearance.

  Note : there are also open comedones, but they are not considered as pimples. The open comedones or blackheads result from the same process as microcysts. When these clogged pores are open, oxidation occurs upon contact with air and the impurities trapped inside the pore darken, thus forming a blackhead.

• The papules and pustules.

  Papules and pustules are potential manifestations ofinflammatory acne. The papules are inflammatory red bumps without pus that are less than 5 mm. They can be round or oval in shape and are often painful. These can disappear or evolve into a pustule. Unlike papules, the pustules are characterized by the presence of pus. These are red bumps with a white head containing pus.

• The nodules and cysts.

  Nodules and cysts are observed in severe forms of inflammatory acne, as well as in theconglobate acne also known as nodulocystic acne. They result from a deep skin inflammation. The nodules are painful solid tissue balls larger than 5 mm. The cysts are painful deep subcutaneous lesions. Unlike nodules, cysts are filled with a fluid.

Zinc is a beneficial ingredient for controlling acne flare-ups. When applied topically, it is effective in eliminating both closed and open comedones, papules, and pustules. Nodules and cysts represent a more advanced stage of acne and require a consultation with a dermatologist who will prescribe suitable medications, likely based on retinoids and/or benzoyl peroxide.

Zinc is an essential trace element for the body. It is found in meat as well as in certain plants after fermentation. A zinc deficiency would exacerbate inflammatory phenomena. It is included in skincare products in various forms such as zinc oxide, zinc gluconate, or zinc PCA.

When applied topically, zinc performs three main actions on the skin.

• It reduces sebum production.

  The zinc reduces the activity of the sebaceous glands due to its anti-androgenic activity. Therefore, it helps regulate sebum production and thus prevents skin imperfections.

• It serves to combat bacteria.

  Propionibacterium acnes, which is the bacterium primarily responsible for this skin condition.

• It possesses healing properties.

  The effect of zinc on blemishes is typically observed after several months of use. It can be combined with niacinamide to regulate sebum production and fade pigmentation spots caused by acne. Zinc can also be paired with salicylic acid to combat pimples and imperfections.

Note :Zinc ingested through diet or dietary supplements is also relevant for regulating the excess sebum characteristic of oily skin. Therefore, if you have oily skin, consume foods rich in zinc, such as oysters (the food highest in zinc), eggs, whole grains, legumes, and oilseeds. Furthermore, a 2012 study reported that oral zinc was effective for inflammatory and bacterial forms of acne. A previous study found that oral zinc was also effective for people with mild acne. However, in both cases, oral supplementation comes with side effects, such as nausea and vomiting. Topical application results in fewer side effects, but it is not considered as effective as oral supplementation. But that does not mean it is completely ineffective, quite the contrary.

We have developed various treatments to limit excess sebum and mattify oily skin.

• The purifying cleansing gel contains 2% of zinc PCA combined with bamboo extract (INCI name: Phyllostachys Bambusoides Extract). The bamboo naturally contains porous particles that absorb excess sebum on the skin. This high absorption capacity helps to reduce skin shine. Therefore, this compound is particularly recommended for combination to oily skin types.

• Specifically designed for oily skin, the matifying serum is concentrated in zinc PCA, in azelaic acid (10%) of plant origin as well as in organic bamboo extract to reduce excess sebum. Of plant origin, the azelaic acid is known for its anti-comedogenic and anti-bacterial effects. Indeed, this molecule works to unclog pores and reduce the formation of "open" comedones (also known as blackheads). It also helps to combat the bacteria involved in acne.

• Due to its content of sebum-regulating and antibacterial actives, ourpurifying face creammade with 4% zinc PCA and bamboo extract is ideal for moderating sebum secretion, refining skin texture, and preventing the appearance of unsightly blackheads. It should be applied daily to clean, dry skin over yourface serum, using small circular movements during application until the cream is fully absorbed. However, this cream is not recommended for pregnant and breastfeeding women due to the essential oils it contains.

• GARG V. K. & al. An observational study of methionine-bound zinc with antioxidants for mild to moderate acne vulgaris. Dermatology and Therapy (2010).

• GRABER E. M. & al. Over-the-counter acne treatments: a review. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (2012).

• CHAUHAN P. S. & al. Zinc therapy in dermatology: A review. Dermatology Research and Practice (2014).