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Skin diagnostic

Explanation on the meaning of the initials VP(+).

Skin Aging VISIBLE

Oxidation Factor PROTECTED

Sebum Production HIGH (+)

The "V" for Visible signs of aging.

The letter "V" indicates that the signs of aging have become visible and are becoming more frequent. Indeed, the fine lines at the corners of the mouth and at the corners of the eyes deepen with age, becoming more and more defined, meaning they are now visible both in motion and at rest. Additionally, new folds appear on new areas of the face such as the wrinkles between the eyebrows (frown lines) or the horizontal forehead wrinkles, depending on individual expressions. Apart from wrinkles, the complexion is uneven with pigmentation defects. These various marks that appear on the surface are the result of different changes that occur within all layers of the skin over the years.

A slowdown in the rate of keratinocyte renewal and a decrease in the adhesion of corneocytes are observed starting in the thirties, which impairs the skin's barrier function, making the epidermis more vulnerable to external aggressions, particularly UV rays. Aging is also marked by a decrease of 8 to 10% every 10 years in the cells that produce melanin, a pigment that protects against UV radiation, along with changes in their morphology and distribution, which causes irregular pigmentation on the skin's surface and the appearance of age spots. At the dermis level, the fibroblasts that synthesize collagen, hyaluronic acid, and elastin undergo changes in their morphology and activity, leading to a decrease in the production of essential proteins for skin firmness and elasticity. These phenomena result in the formation of wrinkles.

The letter "P" for Protect against oxidation factors.

The letter "P" signifies that the skin is well protected against the sun's UV rays. Beyond these beneficial effects on mood or vitamin D secretion, excessive sun exposure is the main cause of premature skin aging and the onset of skin cancers. Indeed, UVA rays can cause dermal changes especially in the elastic tissue, and UVB rays lead to epidermal damage. Activation of free radicals, alteration of the cell membrane, DNA modification... UV rays act differently within skin cells to generate damage, which can alter the cell's function, cause its death, or trigger DNA mutations that in the long term lead to the formation of cancerous cells. Thus, even though the skin has some defenses against UV rays (melanogenesis, endogenous antioxidant system...), it is important to regularly apply an adequate amount of a sunscreen product that is suitable for one's phototype and sun exposure conditions, to ensure reasonable exposure while minimizing risks.

The symbol "+" for high sebum production.

The AE(+) skin type is characterized by a production of sebum that is naturally high (hyperseborrhea). This excessive secretion is primarily physiological, determined by hormonal activity, although it is also influenced by environmental factors (body temperature, circadian rhythm, intake of certain medications, diet rich in fats and sugars, stress...). Although this skin type is well protected by a fatty hydrolipidic film that covers the entire skin surface, this imbalance in sebum production can be a source of concern, with a greasy and shiny appearance in all circumstances, an increased risk of developing pimples and blackheads, an enlargement of the pores, an irregular skin texture due to imperfections that create a micro-relief, and a dull complexion due to poor light reflection. However, being thicker and more resistant to aggressions, it is less prone to premature aging.

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