What are the properties of Centella asiatica for the skin?

The Centella asiatica primarily contributes to maintaining skin hydration. To achieve this, it acts at several levels of the epidermis thanks to its richness in hygroscopic compounds (sugars, polyphenols…). These compounds are capable of retaining water in the stratum corneum and forming a slightly occlusive superficial film, thereby limiting evaporation. In parallel, Centella asiatica contributes to strengthening the barrier function of the epidermis, resulting in an improved capacity of the skin to preserve hydration over time.

These mechanisms are among the primary skin benefits of Centella asiatica, particularly when applied to the face. They were demonstrated in an in vivo study conducted on 25 volunteers, evaluating the moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations (hydrogel and emulsion) containing 5% extract of Centella asiatica, applied twice daily for four weeks. The researchers measured stratum corneum hydration with a corneometer and transepidermal water loss with a tewameter. From the first week of application, a significant increase in stratum corneum hydration was observed, suggesting a rapid action of the extract on the skin's ability to retain water. At the same time, a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss was measured, reflecting an improvement in the integrity of the skin barrier.

The oxidative stress corresponds to an imbalance between the production of free radicals and the skin’s antioxidant defenses.

Generated under the influence of UV rays, pollution, smoking, or even cellular metabolism, free radicals can accumulate in the skin and damage lipids, proteins, and cellular DNA. In the long term, this phenomenon contributes to the degradation of the dermal matrix, the reduction of cellular repair capacity, and to the acceleration of skin aging, which is why it is important to incorporate antioxidants into your skincare routine.

The Centella asiatica exhibits a well-documented antioxidant activity, which is often cited as one of gotu kola’s main benefits for the skin, especially when it is exposed daily to environmental stressors. These effects are largely attributed to its triterpenes, particularly asiatic acid. These compounds are able to directly reduce free radical production and lipid peroxidation, while restoring endogenous antioxidant defenses. More specifically, asiatic acid activates the Nrf2 signaling pathway, notably via the Akt and ERK pathways, resulting in increased expression of enzymes involved in the antioxidant response—such as heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), NAD(P)H quinone oxidoreductase-1 (NQO1), and glutamyl-cysteine ligase. Concurrently, these triterpenes limit the production of pro-oxidant and pro-inflammatory mediators like nitric oxide, TNF-α, and IL-6, thereby indirectly reducing the oxidative load within skin tissues.

This antioxidant activity was demonstrated in a study conducted on human dermal fibroblasts subjected to oxidative stress induced by hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂). Pretreatment of the fibroblasts with various concentrations of Centella asiatica extract (15–60 µg/mL) significantly attenuated H₂O₂-induced cytotoxicity. Gene expression analyses revealed a marked increase in cellular antioxidant enzymes, notably catalase (CAT) and superoxide dismutases 1 and 2 (SOD1, SOD2). This was accompanied by inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase MMP-9, an enzyme involved in extracellular matrix degradation under oxidative stress conditions.

The collagen is a major structural protein of the skin, essential for maintaining its firmness and elasticity. Primarily synthesized by dermal fibroblasts, it forms the framework of the extracellular matrix. With age and under the influence of environmental factors such as UV radiation, its production declines while its degradation accelerates, gradually contributing to skin laxity and the formation of wrinkles.

Several studies suggest that Centella asiatica may have a beneficial effect on collagen production. This action on the dermal matrix is among the most sought-after benefits of tiger grass in cosmetics. A in vitro study investigated the effects of an extract of Centella asiatica (TECA) composed of asiatic acid (30%), madecassic acid (30%), and asiaticoside (40%) on human fibroblast cultures. The results show that this botanical extract increases collagen synthesis in a dose-dependent manner. Analysis of its constituents identified asiatic acid as the primary compound responsible for stimulating collagen production. Furthermore, the Centella asiatica extract and each of the three triterpenes led to increased proline and hydroxyproline levels associated with collagen, two amino acids integral to its structure.

Although these results are derived from cell-based models, they suggest that Centella asiatica could contribute to maintaining dermal structure by supporting the biological mechanisms involved in collagen synthesis.

The antioxidant activity of Centella asiatica, combined with its potential effect on collagen synthesis, logically led the scientific community to question its relevance to skin aging. This question was notably explored in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study conducted on 60 women, which evaluated a cosmetic emulsion combining several plant extracts, including Centella asiatica (3%), in combination with Phyllanthus emblica and Momordica cochinchinensis. After 60 days of application, volunteers who received the active formulation exhibited significant improvements in hydration, skin elasticity, and various wrinkle parameters, both around the eye contour and the cheeks compared with placebo. Furthermore, no signs of skin irritation were reported, confirming the good tolerability of Centella asiatica.

Continuing this line of work, other studies have examined the effect of Centella asiatica applied topically to wrinkles. For instance, a very recent study was conducted by KUO and colleagues with 20 volunteers. They applied daily for 28 days an essence formulated with an extract of Centella asiatica as the primary active ingredient. The other minor active ingredients included oat extract, the chamomile extract, the allantoin, the ectoine, the hyaluronic acid and the arginine. Several clinical parameters were monitored throughout the study, notably skin elasticity and wrinkle severity. The results show that after four weeks of use, these parameters were significantly improved. However, since the tested formulation contained multiple actives, it is impossible to determine what proportion of the observed benefits can be attributed to Centella asiatica.

Historically, the Centella asiatica has long been used for its healing effects. This property is based on a synergy among its bioactive compounds—mainly asiatic acid and madecassic acid—which act at various levels of skin repair. In addition to stimulating fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, two processes essential to rebuilding connective tissue, these molecules modulate inflammation, which can delay healing, while providing antioxidant protection against oxidative stress. More specifically, the constituents of the Centella asiatica promote keratinocyte survival and migration via the activation of calcium-dependent pathways, AMPK, and ERK phosphorylation associated with mTOR, thus contributing to improved skin barrier integrity and a favorable environment for regeneration.

This healing action of Centella asiatica is particularly beneficial for reducing stretch marks or acne scars.

Several studies have examined the effects of Centella asiatica on skin regeneration. One of these, conducted over the course of a year, investigated the effect of a Gotu kola powder (concentration not specified) on the appearance of stretch marks in postpartum women. The researchers compared a group receiving the Centella asiatica to a control group that received only education on stretch mark management. At baseline, all participants had clearly visible stretch marks, but the use of Centella asiatica appears to have had a positive effect.

However, these data should be interpreted with caution : the sample size is limited, the protocol is not randomized, and the formulation used (powder) as well as the assessment, which was subjective, remain poorly standardized. More robust clinical trials are therefore necessary to confirm the efficacy of the Centella asiatica on stretch marks, even though, in parallel, numerous studies have demonstrated its overall effects on wound healing.

The Centella asiaticais sometimes associated with beneficial effects on blood circulation. Its triterpenoid compounds are known to support tissue repair and collagen synthesis, including within the vascular wall. Some studies suggest that they could promote angiogenesis, improve vascular tone, and reduce inflammation and oxidative stress that weaken capillaries. These mechanisms suggest that the Centella asiatica may have a positive impact on blood circulation, but caution is warranted, as available data remain limited.

These potential effects on microcirculation explain the interest in Centella asiatica in conditions such as dark circles and puffiness, the dull complexion linked to poor skin oxygenation, or even the sensations of heavy legs.

An observational study, for example, evaluated a cream combining Centella asiatica with other active ingredients (blackberry, sodium hyaluronate, vitamin E, sweet clover) in 35 individuals presenting with chronic venous insufficiency symptoms. Applied twice daily for 10 days, the treatment was associated with a progressive reduction in the proportion of participants reporting symptoms related to heavy legs, such as pain, itching, or edema, with improvements observed as early as day five. These findings support a beneficial effect of Centella asiatica on blood circulation, but should be interpreted with caution: the study did not include a control group, the formulation combined multiple actives, and the assessment relied primarily on subjective perceptions.

The Centella asiatica is widely recognized for its anti-inflammatory properties, which rely on several complementary biological mechanisms. Its active compounds, notably triterpenes, help to reduce the production of pro-inflammatory mediators such as TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6, as well as the expression of enzymes involved in inflammation like COX-2 and iNOS. This effect largely results from inhibition of the NF-κB signaling pathway. At the same time, the Centella asiatica enhances the skin’s antioxidant defenses, helping to limit oxidative stress and maintain a more serene cutaneous environment. These calming properties are at the core of tiger grass’s benefits for the skin.

Thanks to these benefits, theCentella asiatica is particularly suitable for soothing sensitive or reactive skin, especially in cases of redness or sensations of discomfort.

A prospective clinical study conducted in 88 women with sensitive skin evaluated a facial cream combining Centella asiatica, NP ceramides and panthenol, applied for four weeks. The results showed a significant decrease in the overall skin sensitivity score (SS-10), with a 66% reduction after two weeks and 76% after four weeks. Associated symptoms such as irritation, tightness, itching, and redness each significantly improved, alongside enhanced stratum corneum hydration. Although this self-controlled study is based on a formulation combining multiple active ingredients, it suggests that using Centella asiatica can help soothe sensitive skin and improve its comfort.

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