Mistakes to avoid when you have dilated pores.

Pores are essential to skin balance. Connected to the sebaceous glands, they allow sebum to flow to the skin surface, keeping it hydrated and supple. Present all over the body, except on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet, these micro-openings can sometimes become visible to the naked eye. We then refer to them as enlarged pores, a phenomenon especially common on the T-zone of the face (forehead, nose, chin), where the skin secretes more sebum. This phenomenon is explained by a combination of internal and external factors. Among the internal causes of enlarged pores, are genetics, hormonal fluctuations that lead to excessive sebum production, and skin aging responsible for loosening the pore structure. Added to these are environmental factors, such as chronic UV exposure or inadequate hygiene.

The pores are considered dilated when their diameter exceeds 0.06 mm.

If the appearance of pores depends primarily on internal factors beyond our control, certain actions can improve their appearance or, conversely, make them worse. Here are the mistakes to avoid if you have enlarged pores:

• Over-exfoliating the skin.

  When seeking to refine skin texture, exfoliation appears to be a logical step. Mechanical scrubs, exfoliating acids, chemical peels… While these products are highly effective, if overused they can weaken the skin barrier. To protect itself, the skin responds by producing more sebum, a phenomenon known as reactive hyperseborrhea, which further dilates the pores. Thus, even though it may be tempting, you should not overuse exfoliating products when your pores are dilated.

One to two exfoliations per week are more than sufficient, regardless of your skin type.

• Neglecting to remove makeup.

  Neglecting the makeup removal at the end of the day is a common mistake that can worsen the appearance of enlarged pores. Makeup, particularly when formulated for long wear or waterproof performance, contains film-forming agents designed to adhere to the skin. If not removed, residues can build up in the follicular openings and promote their blockage and dilation. Moreover, skin that isn't properly cleansed is more susceptible to low-grade chronic inflammation, a silent yet detrimental phenomenon that impairs the quality of the connective tissue around the pore, particularly the fibers of collagen and elastin responsible for its structural support. Over time, this contributes to a loss of firmness and accentuates pore enlargement.

A makeup removal daily, ideally in two steps (makeup removal with an oil followed by cleansing with a water-based cleanser), helps limit pore congestion and prevent their dilation.

• Failing to protect oneself from the sun’s rays.

  Exposing yourself to sunlight during the summer season to shrink your pores can at first glance appear to be a good idea. The initial effects of UV rays can give the illusion of more even and less oily skin due to a temporary drying action. However, this improvement is short-lived.

  After the initial drying phase, the skin responds with a compensatory hyperséborrhea mechanism: the sebaceous glands, stimulated by the disruption of the hydrolipidic balance, then produce an excessive amount of sebum. At the same time, UV-induced thickening of the stratum corneum tends to further clog the pores. As a result, sebum struggles to flow out and, by accumulating in the pilosebaceous follicles, causes them to distend. Added to this is an even more insidious effect of UV rays: their ability to degrade collagen and elastin fibers in the dermis via the generation of free radicals. This alteration of the skin’s supportive tissue reduces the firmness around the pores, making them more visible and lax.

Far from tightening pores, sun exposure actually increases their dilation, underscoring the importance of applying a daily sunscreen.

• Using overly rich products.

  It sometimes happens that you use a cream simply because its packaging is attractive, its texture is comforting, or its scent is alluring. However, a pleasant product is not necessarily a suitable one, especially if you tend to have enlarged pores. In that case, using products that are too rich can quickly become counterproductive. Thick textures leave an occlusive film on the surface, which inhibits the natural release of sebum. When trapped, sebum distends the pores. To avoid this vicious cycle, if you have combination to oily skin, it’s best to favor lightweight formulations and non-comedogenic, richer in hydrating active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin, rather than nourishing agents like butters and oils.

Selecting products tailored to your skin type is the first step toward clearer, healthier skin.

• Excessive application of mattifying powder.

  When the skin shines and pores seem to deepen over the course of the day, it can be tempting to reach for mattifying powder every time you pass a mirror. However, repeatedly layering it is far from an ideal solution. By accumulating successive coats of powder, the particles eventually compact on the skin’s surface, gradually obstructing pore openings. A plug then forms, trapping sebum inside the follicles and increasing pore dilation. Furthermore, some mattifying powders contain highly drying absorbent agents that, when overused, can weaken the hydrolipidic film and provoke reactive hyperseborrhea.

If your pores are prone to dilation but you routinely use a mattifying powder, we recommend applying it sparingly—in fine, localized dabs—and limiting yourself to a single touch-up during the day.

• Could consuming excessive fried foods and sugar exacerbate pore dilation?

  It’s a common belief that a diet too rich in fried foods, sugar, or processed products makes the skin oilier and pores more visible. Indeed, some scientific data have shown a link between consuming high–glycemic-index foods, saturated fats, and low omega-3 levels, and sebaceous gland hyperactivity. This dietary imbalance would activate the metabolic pathway of the mTORC1 complex, which is involved in lipid synthesis, particularly sebum production. This pathway stimulates the production of factors such as SREBP-1c and PPARγ, increasing lipogenesis in the sebaceous glands, leading to elevated sebum output and progressive pore clogging.

  However, the precise influence of nutrition on pore enlargement remains to be fully established. Each individual’s skin responds differently, and it would be unfair to blame those prone to enlarged pores solely on their dietary choices. That said, from a comprehensive health standpoint, it is still advisable to limit foods high in fats and sugars—not just to tighten pores but, more importantly, to support long-term hormonal and metabolic balance.

• BARNARD N. D. & al. Diet and acne: A review of the evidence. International Journal of Dermatology (2009).

• TAKAHASHI K. & al. Analysis of the skin surface and inner structure around pores on the face. Skin Research and Technology (2013).

• MELNIK B. C. Linking diet to acne metabolomics, inflammation, and comedogenesis: An update. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2015).

• GOLDENBERG G. & al. Enlarged facial pores: An update on treatments. Cutis (2016).